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	<title>Comments on: The Lowest Maintenance Turf? University Results Are In</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/</link>
	<description>Organic Lawn Care Articles</description>
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		<title>By: tall grasses</title>
		<link>http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/comment-page-1/#comment-8688</link>
		<dc:creator>tall grasses</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Apr 2010 04:50:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.safelawns.org/blog/?p=956#comment-8688</guid>
		<description>[...] on 16. Jan, 2010 ... winter is the best time to heavily trim back your ornamental grasses. ...The Lowest Maintenance Turf? University Results Are In ...Fescue, Bluegrass (not Kentucky bluegrass, takes too much water) and Tall Fescue. When ... All these [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] on 16. Jan, 2010 &#8230; winter is the best time to heavily trim back your ornamental grasses. &#8230;The Lowest Maintenance Turf? University Results Are In &#8230;Fescue, Bluegrass (not Kentucky bluegrass, takes too much water) and Tall Fescue. When &#8230; All these [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Paul Tukey</title>
		<link>http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/comment-page-1/#comment-6491</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul Tukey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 13:38:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.safelawns.org/blog/?p=956#comment-6491</guid>
		<description>Kevin,
This was a trial at URI and all these grasses would perform well in a Northern climate. They would also do well in other regions of the country out of direct sun for the full day. All these grasses in the trial did not have any nitrogen applied and still maintained a stand of turf. I have tall fescue at my home and, after the year it was established, I have not applied anything. I do allow clover to grow and I recycle the grass clippings, so the grass is getting some nitrogen. Seedland.com is a great on-line seed reference.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kevin,<br />
This was a trial at URI and all these grasses would perform well in a Northern climate. They would also do well in other regions of the country out of direct sun for the full day. All these grasses in the trial did not have any nitrogen applied and still maintained a stand of turf. I have tall fescue at my home and, after the year it was established, I have not applied anything. I do allow clover to grow and I recycle the grass clippings, so the grass is getting some nitrogen. Seedland.com is a great on-line seed reference.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kevin Yager</title>
		<link>http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/comment-page-1/#comment-6485</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevin Yager</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 12:36:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.safelawns.org/blog/?p=956#comment-6485</guid>
		<description>When choosing from the hard fescue, tall fescue, colonial bentgrass, red fescue and koeleria how might the reader know which is best suited for their region?  Seems like choosing the best species would have a lot to do with one&#039;s own regional climate.

Also what would happen if one used zero pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq ft?  Which grasses work best under that condition?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When choosing from the hard fescue, tall fescue, colonial bentgrass, red fescue and koeleria how might the reader know which is best suited for their region?  Seems like choosing the best species would have a lot to do with one&#8217;s own regional climate.</p>
<p>Also what would happen if one used zero pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq ft?  Which grasses work best under that condition?</p>
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		<title>By: Paul Holowko</title>
		<link>http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/comment-page-1/#comment-6329</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul Holowko</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:46:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.safelawns.org/blog/?p=956#comment-6329</guid>
		<description>Hey Jim,
The best way to purchase seeds is in diversity with your local ecology in mind.  I&#039;ve been growing my lawn organically for years.  I use three type of grasses for my climate. I mix them together and reseed every fall.  Fescue, Bluegrass (not Kentucky bluegrass, takes too much water) and Tall Fescue.  When one grass goes dormant, another one takes over.  So, my lawn stays green though out the year.  In San Jose, CA, our dormant time of the year is in midsummer, not winter. Our growing season starts in the 2nd week of January and quits around July.  In the East Coast, your growing season can start around Apr. or May depending how North you are.    Reseed in the fall and allow the seed to germinate for any frosts.  It will give the grass a chance to smother out weeds.  
One word about weeds.  Weeds have two uses.  They can tell you what kind of soil you have and they can fix nitrogen for you.  The type of weeds that naturally grow on your lawn grow  the best in your soil.  For example, dandelions are like  a Brassicas  with a long tap roots and function by bringing up minerals from deep in the soil up to the surface.  That means you have very clay soil with a possible superficial water shed.  If you have clover,  you have natural nitrogen fixtures.  Once your soil improves, dandelions will go away by themselves because the soil is not right for them anymore.  The same goes for Bermuda grass.  It&#039;s a forest pioneer grass.    
Paul Holowko
www.gardeningrhythms.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Jim,<br />
The best way to purchase seeds is in diversity with your local ecology in mind.  I&#8217;ve been growing my lawn organically for years.  I use three type of grasses for my climate. I mix them together and reseed every fall.  Fescue, Bluegrass (not Kentucky bluegrass, takes too much water) and Tall Fescue.  When one grass goes dormant, another one takes over.  So, my lawn stays green though out the year.  In San Jose, CA, our dormant time of the year is in midsummer, not winter. Our growing season starts in the 2nd week of January and quits around July.  In the East Coast, your growing season can start around Apr. or May depending how North you are.    Reseed in the fall and allow the seed to germinate for any frosts.  It will give the grass a chance to smother out weeds.<br />
One word about weeds.  Weeds have two uses.  They can tell you what kind of soil you have and they can fix nitrogen for you.  The type of weeds that naturally grow on your lawn grow  the best in your soil.  For example, dandelions are like  a Brassicas  with a long tap roots and function by bringing up minerals from deep in the soil up to the surface.  That means you have very clay soil with a possible superficial water shed.  If you have clover,  you have natural nitrogen fixtures.  Once your soil improves, dandelions will go away by themselves because the soil is not right for them anymore.  The same goes for Bermuda grass.  It&#8217;s a forest pioneer grass.<br />
Paul Holowko<br />
<a href="http://www.gardeningrhythms.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.gardeningrhythms.com</a></p>
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		<title>By: It's Only Natural Landscaping</title>
		<link>http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2010/02/the-lowest-maintenance-turf-university-results-are-in/comment-page-1/#comment-6076</link>
		<dc:creator>It's Only Natural Landscaping</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Feb 2010 13:30:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.safelawns.org/blog/?p=956#comment-6076</guid>
		<description>Great advice Paul-
When purchasing seed what is the best way to determine whether it is &quot;Improved&quot; versus &quot;Common&quot;?
Jim</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great advice Paul-<br />
When purchasing seed what is the best way to determine whether it is &#8220;Improved&#8221; versus &#8220;Common&#8221;?<br />
Jim</p>
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