Ask a Question

Wed, Sep 9, 2009

Ask a Question

Use this section to pose any questions you may have.

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This post was written by:

Paul Tukey - who has written 926 posts on Safelawns Daily Post and Q&A Blog.


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278 Responses to “Ask a Question”

  1. Tim Says:
    April 23rd, 2010 at 4:59 pm

    Hi Paul,

    I have a home in Franklin County Maine and right now my “yard” is just dirt. I thought of creating a lawn, but I’m really not keen on maintaining it. Is it practical to simply plant the entire area with clover instead? The total area is about 2,500 square feet and a mix of sun and shade. I’d just not rather have to mow every week yet I want something there for erosion control. I’ve heard of people simply planting a “clover lawn” and it sounded like a good idea to me. If this would work, do you have any recommendations of which type of clover to plant and where you can purchase clover seed?

    Reply

  2. Gillian Says:
    April 24th, 2010 at 11:47 am

    Hi Paul, i came across you website on face book, im campaighning to my local council regarding pesticide exposure in our local village.Both my son and i were both sprayed with these chemicals and have suffered really bad symptoms. Could i please buy your dvd to show in my local council, let them see what they are doing to folks health, there are a high rate of cancers here in my area .
    Kind regards
    Gillian

    Reply

  3. Philipp Says:
    April 25th, 2010 at 9:42 pm

    Hello,

    Anyone have any recommendations on how I can ban pest/herbicides in my town?

    Reply

    • Sarah Says:
      June 11th, 2010 at 10:20 pm

      Hi Phillipp,

      A great place to start, especially if you live in the U.S., is Grassroots Environmental Education’s website, http://www.grassrootsinfo.org

      Also, their How Green is My Town program. In particular, check out their page on turf pesticides:
      http://www.howgreenismytown.org/mylocalgovt/lgpesticides.html

      You can also download a Municipal Pesticide Reduction Resource Guide, a step-by-step manual to help concerned citizens, cities and towns reduce pesticides at
      http://www.turi.org/content/view/full/2743

      It was written in 2002 for Massachusetts, but most of it is relevant anywhere in the U.S. It includes a step-by-step outline for municipal pesticide use reduction.

      In most states it is not currently possible for a town to ban pesticides on private land, but it is possible for them to ban pesticides on their own land, which is often extensive, and to set an example for its citizens.

      Reply

  4. Mike Says:
    April 26th, 2010 at 10:54 am

    Hi Paul,

    Are there any compost bins you recommend? I live in suburbs and don’t have much room or appeal for an open wooden one. My family gets rid of a lot of food scraps and I’d like to be using them in a good way. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply

  5. Kelly Wheeler Says:
    April 28th, 2010 at 2:43 am

    Could somebody teach me the main differences between the different types of bedbugs?

    Reply

  6. Scott Morgan Says:
    April 29th, 2010 at 5:39 pm

    Hey Paul,

    I’m trying to figure out a way to keep track of where my property line is when I mow. I have a very nice older neighbor who can’t mow in a straight line and my inability to draw a straight line with a ruler is well documented! I swear I once saw these target/bullseyes you could sink into the ground along a line to mark for mowing, but for the life of me I can’t find them again. I figured if anyone would know it would be you, so any help on that front or other ways of keeping my mower straight would be appreciated!

    Thanks as always,
    Scott Morgan

    Reply

  7. John Carey Says:
    April 29th, 2010 at 9:55 pm

    I’d like to know how to question our lawn spray applicator guy who recently told me he will call to explain what he sprays on the lawn.
    I know I should ask if he uses atrazine. Which he probably does. What else should I be looking for? His service is described as “fertilizer and weed control treatment”. I have three little nieces that come and visit here at my parents house. I really want this guy to get the important message. Thanks for your help.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      May 1st, 2010 at 8:42 am

      Ask to see the MSDS sheets (Material Safety Data Sheets) of everything he’s applying to your property. The risks are usually spelled out on those. You can also type in the chemical compound into the database at http://www.panna.org to see what their scientific review has to say.

      Reply

  8. Monica Belyea Says:
    May 3rd, 2010 at 4:16 pm

    We just removed a large section of asphalt from our city yard. I had planned to seed it with a mix of grasses including clover. I have no need for pristine blue grass but the kids need a place to kick a ball around. I’m now rethinking because it’s such a muddy mess out there, there’s nowhere to go except through it. I’m also feeling impatient to have a yard after 3 years of asphalt.

    Is there anyone in the Northeast that grows environmentally friendly sod? I’m in Connecticut. And is sod worth the cost if I’m going to let clover and dandelions grow in it?

    Thanks much!
    -Monica

    Reply

    • Sarah Says:
      June 13th, 2010 at 4:58 pm

      Hi Monica,

      It’s hard to start a lawn in the spring in the Northeast because of the competition from annual weeds; it’s much easier in the fall. A useful solution is to plant annual ryegrass now, which germinates very quickly and grows fast, and then in late August or early September overseed with a perennial grass seed mix and a bit of white clover seed.

      http://www.ryegrasses.com/

      http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7967-new-zealand-white-clover.aspx

      There aren’t any organic sod farms in the Northeast yet, and sod is very expensive and requires a fair bit of maintenance to keep alive until it is established.

      Reply

  9. diane rodgers Says:
    May 5th, 2010 at 7:34 pm

    I have creeping charlie taking over my lawn. How can I get rid of it safely without using chemicals?

    Reply

  10. Jerry Says:
    May 10th, 2010 at 4:08 pm

    Paul,

    Have you or any of your readers experienced or heard of problems with the new Scotts grass seed that have the covering over them for imporoved water retention? I used some last year in dirt patch areas and nothgin grew. I planted some a little over three weeks ago and still nothing. They have been watered every day between me and the rain.
    This stuff is expensive and it is distrubing that nothing has come up yet. I have a co worker that has a similar experience. I have used Scotts grass seed in the past with no problems. The best results I have had in the past was with Lesco. I wish I used them again this spring and may reseed this weekend with it.
    I can’t believe that Scotts is pretty much replacing their other seeds with this one if it didn’t work well so I’m thinking I didn’t do something right. I used Fire Belly Spring Activator after I seeded. The existing grass is growing great. Being all organic I can’t imagine I shouldn’t have used it with grass seed.

    Thanks,
    Jerry

    Reply

  11. Alex Says:
    May 17th, 2010 at 1:08 pm

    Hi Paul,

    I live in Saint Petersburg, FL and have been trying to find a green fertilizing company with no success. Do you know of any or anyone that you could recommend in this area?. We haven’t sprayed our lawn since our son was born 19 months ago and it is looking pretty bad.
    Any information is appreciated- Thanks for all the information you have on your website!!!

    Alex

    Reply

  12. Craig Says:
    May 20th, 2010 at 1:59 pm

    Hi Paul,

    I was wondering if you had hear of this new product called Sarritor? It is produced in Montreal, Canada and is supposed to be a naturally occuring fungus that is used as a selective herbicide that targets broadleaf weeds. The manufacturer claims it to be safe for humans and pets as well.

    Here is the link to their website: http://www.sarritor.ca/ I would love to hear what your thoughts are on this product.

    Thanks.

    Reply

  13. Hank Lipson Says:
    May 22nd, 2010 at 12:43 pm

    Looking for recommendations for a general post-emergent weed control. I am in southern NJ and used corn gluten as a pre-emergent.

    Thanks…

    Reply

  14. Jen Says:
    May 24th, 2010 at 2:52 pm

    Hi,
    I’d like to write a short letter to our YMCA Executive Director about pesticide use on their lawn. I just noticed that it was treated on May 16, and have never seen this before in all the years I’ve been taking my kids there. During the summer, young children attending daycare and camps are brought to the lawn for activities. Obviously, I want to see this halted. Looking for tips and phrases to construct my letter.
    Thanks,
    Jen

    Reply

  15. Tom Says:
    May 31st, 2010 at 4:04 pm

    Paul,

    I just had a discussion with my local compost supplier and his distributor regarding the amount of garbage pieces I have found on my lawn from spreading his product. Apparently, commercial composting takes the organic wastes from municipalities and create their large piles. After the composting processing is complete it gets screened and becomes certified organic from certain inspectors. My question to these people today was, what are the acceptable standards for the level of garbage that can remain in a certified compost medium and still carry the certification? I was told there isn’t any, but no garbage is the hope, but there is no control over what people throw into their leaf piles before dropping it off at the dump. I have collected about 1 pint of bits and pieces of plastic bags, wrappers, electrical wire, crab claws, seashells, styrofoam, glass, bic pen casing, etc. in about 4 yards of compost (not done yet). Would you please comment on your experience with this? Should I not be concerned with burying other peoples trash on my lawn? Because I am and I’d rather keep my property free of trash. Thank you.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      June 3rd, 2010 at 4:00 pm

      Tom,
      Most commercial composting sites will take the time to filter out debris and trash that doesn’t biodegrade, but the regulations are all over the map on this point. Municipal sites are also all over the map on accepting grass clippings that may be tainted with herbicides and other pesticides. You’ll do well to have a conversation with your supplier; don’t just accept whatever they produce. It doesn’t cost that much to filter the compost as an extra step.

      Reply

  16. John Says:
    June 2nd, 2010 at 3:22 pm

    Hey Paul. I had a question about Organic/Friendly weed killers. From all my research, the 3 best that I’ve found is Green Guardian, Avenger and the new Fiesta. Out of these 3, the Green Guardian seems to be the most friendly and effective. I’m actually buying all 3 and about to experiment on my neigbors weed ridden lawn so I’ll know if gut is correct. Anyways, I was just wondering what you have used and could recommend. Thanks!

    Reply

  17. JM Says:
    June 9th, 2010 at 10:56 am

    Hi Paul,
    I am also a fervent supporter of organic lawn and organic gardening. My lawn (and garden) and very rich on clay; I am in the process of having my lawn analysed, but was wondering if there is anyhtig I can do to make the lawn (and garden) more fertile. I have receive in multiple instances teh suggestion that I should replace my soil on 12 to 18 inches with better soil… What do you think?
    Cheers,

    Reply

  18. Scott Trevisan Says:
    June 14th, 2010 at 12:41 pm

    Hello Paul,

    We have alot of brown patch and other fungus here in the charlotte nc area. What kind of fungus control do you use?

    Best regards,
    Scott

    Reply

  19. Bruce Hendler Says:
    June 17th, 2010 at 1:30 pm

    Paul:

    I don’t recall seeing this product addressed in Safelawns’ blogs, but lately, there has been a good deal of p.r. in Landscape Architectural and Architectural “Green Products” newsletters about Rubber Mulch (see
    http://products.construction.com/Manufacturer/LTR-PRODUCTS-NST152006/products/Pinnacle-Rubber-Mulch-NST43240-P).

    Understandably, the p.r. touts the positive characteristics of the product: for example, no splinters for kids, nor harboring pests, no need to replenish as frequently as wood-based mulches, etc., plus it does recycle old tires – helping mitigate a major waste-stream issue.

    However, the evaluations regarding rubber crumb with which I’m familiar — especially as it relates to its use as an “anchor” for artificial turf — is that the tire compounds contain lead and other toxins, and over time, the bad stuff leaches out into the soil. Kids play in it, too. This is not good. I have an excellent older power-point in my files from the Mt. Sinai Hospital School of Medicine/Children’s Environmental Health Center that deals comprehensively with the issue, and I can pass it along to you if you want it. Just let me know.

    Also, the rubber crumb anchoring material, generally black in color, holds heat. About a year-and-a-half ago, one of my colleagues told me of an NPR report that noted that “… mystery hot spots… recorded in an aerial GPS study of the Bronx were not black roofs, but playing fields covered in artificial turf. The air temperature just above the plastic strands measured in excess of 160 degrees F.”

    It seems logical that rubber mulch would have characteristics that are similar to or identical with rubber crumb.

    Has this been your experience?

    Is it a matter of concern that you’d want to address?

    Thanks.
    - Bruce.

    Reply

  20. Kim LaFrance Says:
    June 17th, 2010 at 1:32 pm

    Hi Paul,

    Thank you for being open to accepting emails to help people like me! I got your name from the Prince Edward Island government; from Don Reeves to be exact. He told me that you had just been here a few weeks ago.

    I had an old dock removed from the shore which is about 20 feet from my minihome in Charlottetown. It had been built about 15 years ago out of old palette wood. When I purchased my home 10 years ago, the dock was still in pretty good condition, but over the years, it has become a palace for carpenter ants! Last week, I had the dock removed by Bulldog Demolition. I asked them to be on the look out for a carpenter ant nest. They told me that there were a lot of ants in an old picnic table which they took away from the site.

    I thought that was the main nest, but unfortunately I recently found another nest in a bank of earth that was under the old wood. I have been treating it with Raid Ant Bait which is a syrup containing Boric Acid. I am contemplating having Orkin remove the nest, but the queen could escape. Don told me that you recommended cornmeal for black ants. Do you think cornmeal will work for carpenter ants and if not do you have any other ideas.

    Patiently waiting,
    Kim LaFrance from PEI

    Reply

  21. Dawn Says:
    June 25th, 2010 at 11:00 am

    Are the safelawn approved dealers on the resource page all 100% organic options. I have read a lot of “organic” dealers are not so organic.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      June 25th, 2010 at 11:44 am

      Yes, Dawn,
      They all take a pledge to be 100 percent organic. If we were to find out anything different about their practices, we would remove them from the list.

      Reply

  22. Brett Says:
    June 30th, 2010 at 8:42 am

    Does anyone know if the Ortho EcoSense Weed Killer with chelated iron is completely safe to use if you are under an organic lawn care program? The other product I see is the Iron X one on gardensalive.com. Is one safer than the other to use? Thanks

    Reply

  23. Jerry Says:
    June 30th, 2010 at 1:43 pm

    Paul,

    I have a 12 year old golden retriever who has muscle loss in his hind legs so he doesn’t get around as much as he used. We just let him out the door and he would go and do his business but it was usually in the side yard where there are trees and bushes. Lately he just goes on the front lawn and its creating brown spots on my lawn. Fortunately he tends to go in the same three spots but those spots are growing too.
    What can I do to revive those spots. I had heard in the past that putting some tomato juice in his water would make his urine less acidic but he won’t drink that. Is there something I can treat those areas with?

    Thanks,
    Jerry

    Reply

  24. Paul Stankus Says:
    July 21st, 2010 at 10:38 am

    Hi Paul –

    I’m wondering if you can offer any advice on organic post-emergent control for crabgrass; and I’m guessing that I’m not the only reader with this question right now.

    I was really moved by reading your book on organic lawn care, and have been trying to follow best practices for the last year or two. On the whole it’s been a success and I’m very grateful. But this summer we’re really being done in by crabgrass and I don’t have any good idea for what to do. We’ve followed the basic advice of (i) using organic pre-emergent (in our case corn gluten) in the spring and (ii) trying to keep the lawn healthy overall. But the crabgrass still springs up right in the middle of thriving turf and continues to spread.

    Details: we live on Long Island, and have had record high temperatures and low rainfall here through June and July. We’ve tried to keep the grass thriving with deep waterings ~2/week, mowing high, and some core aeration, but the crabgrass is still winning the competition. I’ve tried pulling the stuff out by hand, but I can’t possibly stay ahead of it (plus, as a pasty office wonk I can’t really take working in the sun and 100-deg heat with high humidity for more than a few minutes).

    We will certainly follow the program of composting and overseeding in the fall and hope for the best next year, but I’d really like to be able to do something more effective right now. Are there any safe topical treatments against crab grass that you can recommend? or more specific mowing/watering advice?

    Thanks; we appreciate it!

    Paul Stankus

    Reply

  25. Sharon Muczynski Says:
    July 26th, 2010 at 7:48 pm

    Hi Paul,
    Kudos to you because you are doing wonderful work! My school of Ecology at University of Georgia has a Eco-Film Festival in the fall. What is the possibility of showing your film? I am not in charge of this festival, but I know who is, and I would like to see films about the causes of CCD. Incidentally we have an organically maintained lawn in Georgia, and proudly post signs to advertise the fact. It is a plus that our lawn IS the most beautiful lawn in the neighborhood and a testament to organics. We use corn gluten, mow high, and use good-old-fashioned weed pulling for the infrequent weed. Kids from around the block come over to roll in the lawn. We ONLY have a lawn because it is required in the subdivision covenants.
    Thank you for all you do!
    Sharon Muczynski

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      July 26th, 2010 at 10:18 pm

      Sharon,
      I’d love to show A Chemical Reaction in Georgia. The film has not premiered there. If you let me know the proper contact, I’ll send along a copy. Thanks!

      Reply

  26. Rachael Egan Says:
    July 29th, 2010 at 3:12 pm

    Dear Paul;
    I am a member of a new group (2 months old) in Montclair- Safe Lawns Montclair. You have inspired us. Is there any way at all that we might be able to meet with you one day, via skype? We meet on the first and third Mondays every month, at 7.30pm- but can be very flexible, should you have time at all. I can promise that we will have a concise list of questions, and be organized and mindful of your time.

    I am leading the group this August, and my greatest fear, is that we waste time re-inventing the wheel. You have already covered so much ground, and it would be a shame to waste valuable resources and time. Our immediate goal is to rid Montclair NJ of toxic lawn chemicals. We hope to get to the rest of New Jersey after that. (;

    We have plans underway, but a meeting with you would be very helpful. In the long term, a visit from you to our town would be powerful. This is a very progressive place in many ways, but we have a lot of people here too, with huge HUGE lawns, using huge lawn companies, that spray ALL the time. It’s not just a Spring and Fall thing here. I can smell the chemicals in the air when I drive in off the freeway. It’s a really bad thing, when the freeway smells fresher, than a leafy suburb.

    Many thanks for all of your amazing work,
    Rachael Egan

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      July 30th, 2010 at 12:57 pm

      Rachel,
      We are in the process of setting up state chapters of SafeLawns run by folks who want to disseminate information in their areas. I’ll be in touch.

      Reply

  27. Dawn Says:
    July 30th, 2010 at 1:48 pm

    Paul,

    I am a new mom who is too busy to find the time for lawn care. I want a 100% organic lawn, and have found a dealer called Safe-Earth Lawn Care http://www.safe-earth.biz/comments.htm. They say they are 100% organic and use the following:

    Pre-emergent Weed Control Corn Gluten

    Natural organic product to control annual weeds. 60% corn protein material containing 10% nitrogen by weight. Effective for control of crabgrass, dandelions and other weeds propagated by seeds. Applied early spring and late summer. Corn gluten is a licensed product that was developed by inventors at Iowa State University.

    Organic Compost

    Dehydrated, sterilized manure that restores the natural balance of the soil and builds humus. Our compost benefits flowers, gardens, trees and shrubbery, while continuing to work in the soil for three to five years. Organic Compost reduces the need for watering and is a chemical-free product that is universally recognized by lawn and garden experts as one of the best fertilizer available.

    Nature’s Feed
    Nature’s Feed is a protein by-product extracted from the sugar beet. This product works as a pre and post-emergent broadleaf weed control. Results have shown a 70% success rate when product is used for pre-emergent weed control.

    This is a very sticky, fibrous liquid that fertilizes and builds soil organic matter. It will require three treatments to control most emerged weeds

    Does this seem legitimate? I am really wanting to be 100% pesticide free.

    Thanks!

    Dawn

    Reply

  28. Paul Tukey Says:
    July 30th, 2010 at 1:55 pm

    Dawn,
    I’m not familiar with the company, but it does sound like it’s legitimately organic from the information you provided.

    Reply

  29. Paul Tukey Says:
    July 30th, 2010 at 2:11 pm

    Corn gluten is safe enough to eat.

    Reply

  30. Erik Keller Says:
    August 2nd, 2010 at 11:19 am

    More a comment. Just saw your movie and really liked it though there are some holes that your “enemies” could easily grab upon. The first is that there is no study you cite showing that people are more healthy because they are not using chemicals on their lawns. Hudson should be a great proof point given the amount of time it has been pesticide free. Especially if blood samples are taken of babies vs older siblings.

    You also dont talk economics and dependency on chemicals: if you go organic in the right way with a lawn it will cost you a lot less in the long run.

    The next is your approach, which is very stick rather than carrot. You cite all the bad things but none of the good things about going organic (at least in the movie). I have never used pesticides or herbicides in my gardens for over 30 years and they look great. We have snakes, frogs, newts, salamanders, etc. all over the place. But they did not arrive overnight as the prior owner used a lawn service.

    I recently had to redo my lawn because of a new septic that needed to be put in and seeded the new lawn with a combination of 5 fescue cultivars and clover. I went a bit overboard on the clover but it worked out really well and looks great. I have never owned a gas power mower and have gotten some neighbor kids to mow my grass in “Tom Sawyer” like moments. Mowing with a manual mower has so many pleasures. One of the most unexpected (when you start) is that fact that lots of things are living in the grass that have a chance to get out of the way (or for you to stop and check them out.)

    So keep up the good work but try to be a bit more positive. I have written about this type of stuff on my blog GroHappy (http://grohappy.typepad.com/) as I am embarking on my fourth career as a horticultural therapist.

    Reply

  31. Paul Stankus Says:
    August 2nd, 2010 at 7:01 pm

    Umm, crabgrass? (see above from Jul 21) We could sure use some help out here….

    Thanks,

    Paul Stankus

    Reply

  32. solar panels Says:
    August 5th, 2010 at 2:19 am

    Hi Paul, i came across you website on face book, im campaighning to my local council regarding pesticide exposure in our local village.Both my son and i were both sprayed with these chemicals and have suffered really bad symptoms. have a good time.i like your telling…
    this my homepage.
    http://www.ecoapp.net
    http://www.meinmanga.com

    Reply

  33. Patti Mallett Says:
    August 9th, 2010 at 9:14 am

    Last summer during the drought period my front lawn (the part I would like to look best) came down with Cinch Bugs, which apparently show up when everything is bone dry. Right? It’s an area that gets full sun and has needed numerous re-seedings. I swore I would not allow that to happen again so am watering this summer. (The rest of my lawn is better soil so makes it through w/out the extra watering and only needs little touch-ups.) Is there a simple way to feed that soil? (I’m not up for making my own compost tea, so please consider that in your answer.) Also, when can we order the “Kiss My Grass” signs? A big reason to keep my lawn looking good is that I am hoping to eventually convince others in my neighborhood to stop spraying and go this route, as I did a few years back. Thanks!

    Reply

  34. Jim Clark Says:
    August 10th, 2010 at 12:53 pm

    Paul, I have planted “Morning Glory” seeds in hopes of having them most of the growing season here in Maine. I lived in Northern CA and the plant did well and really grow all over the place for a good eight months. I plant it here and am lucky it grows 2 months. When is the best time to plant the seeds and what about the prep.?

    thank you

    Reply

  35. Andrew Boshears Says:
    August 25th, 2010 at 11:36 am

    Hi Paul, I have heard from a few people now that lawn companies, in specifically the ones that work for the cities, are using a type of plant growth regulators on the landscapes. Do you any insight on these chemicals?

    Reply

  36. Roz Lynn Dorf Says:
    August 27th, 2010 at 1:17 pm

    Paul — You interviewed me for your blog in April around Earth Day. I live in Boulder, at the HOA right next to where you are coming in September. I just sent my RSVP. I want to be sure to meet you in person. A lot has been happening at Shanahan Ridge 7, where I live.

    Reply

  37. Tom Says:
    August 30th, 2010 at 8:55 am

    When I was looking to add clover to yard to help with the grass, I noticed a new microclover strain. From the literature, it seems that is is designed for yard use and has some benefits over white dutch.

    Does anyone have experience with this strain of clover? It is a little pricey and I would like reviews before I try it.

    Thanks,
    Tom

    Reply

  38. connie Says:
    September 13th, 2010 at 12:46 pm

    I see that on the safelawns site there are advertisements for people who sell eco friendly lawn maintenance products. Are there any lawn maintenance SERVICES out there that people can hire who are conscientious about what they put on your lawn? So far I haven’t found any in Richmond, VA. Some have names like Natural Lawn, etc. but they all put the same old chemicals on the lawn.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      September 13th, 2010 at 8:17 pm

      Connie,
      We do have companies who we certify as eco-friendly and organic in the service sector, but thus far none in Virginia. We are in the process of recruiting them, however. Please check back often.

      Reply

  39. Felicity Says:
    October 4th, 2010 at 11:51 am

    Hi Paul,

    We bought a house in Arlington, VA with a “lawn” that is 99% weeds. We’d really like to grow grass instead of vines and weed and are wondering how to go about getting rid of the weeds and encouraging new grass to grow.

    This morning my husband tried to rake the weeds in an attempt to rough up the soil for grass seed. This resulted in ALL the covering being removed. It was easier to just shovel off the top inch! We stopped because we’re not sure how to dispose of the removed material and would love a suggestion of how to go about creating a lawn with less waste to be removed. Shall we aerate the lawn and re-seed? Dig it up? Rent a tiller? Please help.

    Thanks so much,
    Felicity & Steve

    Reply

  40. David Dias Says:
    October 13th, 2010 at 8:56 pm

    I know fall is a great time to apply organic fertilizers, but I had a question regarding alfalfa meal pellets. Should I wait until later in the season to put them down? I’m concerned about attracting field mice or rats. What are your thoughts?

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      October 15th, 2010 at 3:32 pm

      David,
      The alfalfa pellets will break down quickly after a rain; if no rain is predicted, go ahead and water them in. This is a good time of year to do it.

      Reply

  41. Jan Says:
    October 14th, 2010 at 11:32 pm

    Paul:

    I just finished you book and am practicing the knowledge outside, with some progress already but I guess time will tell. It is my first lawn and the first year, thus I am a complete beginner. I think the book is great and provides all the info to beginners like me, with one single exception: acorns. We have many oak trees and now in the fall (my first fall taking care of my lawn) it is covered with acorns. I can rake up a lot of them but not all. My question is, is it safe to leave them there? Are they going to decompose quickly, becoming a fertilizer? Or are they going to suffocate the grass?

    Thank you!

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      October 15th, 2010 at 3:26 pm

      Jan,
      Acorns won’t hurt anything, per se, other than being uncomfortable to walk on in bare feet. The biggest issue may be the ones that germinate, but these die quickly after being mowed once. So don’t stress about the acorns. Just rake up the ones you can reasonably get to.

      Reply

  42. Susan Says:
    October 21st, 2010 at 1:31 pm

    Hi Paul,
    I’ve been organic in my lawn and gardens for at least 3 years. I’ve been using the Organica program for the lawn for the last 4 seasons. I’m careful to put the first step (corn gluten) down after 3 consecutive days of 50 degree weather and I hand dig the many dandelion’s that crop up each year. My question is twofold. First, even with the corn gluten application, I always have a lot of crab grass in July/August. I apply lime & overseed in August, and the grass looks great come September. I read in your book (and from other sources) that after 3/4 seasons of organic care, that the crabgrass would diminish, but I haven’t seen this to be the case (nor have th dandelion’s by the way). I did a soil test and everything was balanced so… Any ideas?

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      October 22nd, 2010 at 1:46 pm

      Susan,
      Do you always keep the mower blade at 3 inches or higher from the spring into late autumn? Mowing too low allows crabgrass seeds to germinate.

      Reply

  43. Gillian Kozicki Says:
    November 2nd, 2010 at 7:43 pm

    Hi from NSW, Australia. Could you let me know if you have a biological/sustainable answer to getting rid of bindii. Last year I did nothing so this year they came out in full force so what do I do so that over the next couple of years so I can reduce their impact and gradually get rid of them as the seeds are now lying in the grass everywhere? We can eventually get rid of the grass as its on our farm outside the house.
    Thank you for any help you can give,

    Gillian

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      November 2nd, 2010 at 7:46 pm

      Gillian,
      Here is a response from yesterday’s guest blogger, Craig Dick:

      Bindii/lawnweed, (Soliva sessilis) is one of up to nine species of the genus Soliva, is a low-growing herbaceous annual plant. Its common names include lawnweed, common soliva, Onehunga weed, and field burrweed. It is one of several plants known as bindi weed, or bindi-eye. Botanical synonyms include Soliva daucifolia Nutt. and Soliva pterosperma (Juss.)

      As a winter annual, lawnweed dies back in the summer, leaving large dead spots during times of the heaviest use. It also produces the sharp seeds, or burs, during the summer which penetrate skin and tires. These seeds are then dispersed by attaching themselves to anyone using these high traffic areas.

      Native to South America this species was first described in Chile in 1794. Lawnweed was naturalized in California by 1836. It may have traveled from Chile in hide shipments (Ray 1987). Lawnweed is well established in California. Lawnweed is commonly found throughout Texas, the southwest, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Missouri, and South Carolina with increasing infestations in southern coastal plains. It also occurs in New Zealand and Australia.

      Lawnweed is found in managed perennial grass areas usually associated with heavy foot traffic (read compaction). In Weeds and Why They Grow we find that Bindii likes very low calcium, low phosphorus, copper, humus, and biological activity soils.

      The usual method of irradiation is chemical herbicides. Though this does nothing to correct the soil problems that cause it to flourish, in fact herbicides can actually worsen the soil. A herbicidal soap mixture should be very effective at killing bindii. Just be sure to avoid spraying the grass with this mixture!

      Spaying with soap should be followed by applications of gypsum (HydroSave), calcium phosphate (avoid chemically made phosphorus as this will lower biological activity), copper sulfate, humates (HumaCal would be great for this situation) and compost tea. Rates should be based off of a soil test.

      Herbicidal Soap:
      1 gallon of 10% vinegar
      Add 1 ounce orange oil or d-limonene
      1 teaspoon liquid soap or other surfactant
      Do not add water

      Reply

  44. Tina Ramsey Says:
    February 9th, 2011 at 7:58 pm

    I just wanted to tell you how much I am enjoying your People, Places & Plants disc set. Television really doesn’t have many good garden shows anymore so I ordered these from Netflix and am enjoying them. Being from the Brunswick area of Maine I am also enjoying seeing a bit of home and the accents of course. Well, thanks and keep up the good work. I’m not sure many know of your series outside of New England but I will try to publicize it on my blog soon because I feel so strongly about your quality shows and think others will enjoy them during this very white winter. Tina

    Note: People, Places & Plants was a television show starring Roger Swain and SafeLawns founder Paul Tukey that aired on HGTV from 2004-2007.

    Reply

  45. Brenda Says:
    February 20th, 2011 at 5:54 pm

    Your talk yesterday at the Houston Organic Fair was extraordinary. The standing ovation was testament to your ability and, honestly, they should have let you talk for twice as long. You may not remember our conversation in the hallway, but, if so, what was the name of that fungicide from Houston that you mentioned?
    Brenda in Houston

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      February 20th, 2011 at 6:01 pm

      Brenda,
      Actinovate is manufactured by Natural Industries of Houston. It works on dollar spot, take all patch, brown spot and other fungal diseases. I spent some time with the owner of the company during my trip out there and he said tests are also underway on snow mould.
      Paul T.

      Reply

  46. Brian Says:
    February 23rd, 2011 at 3:55 pm

    Paul,

    I have a 3,000 sq ft front yard and much larger backyard that backs up to a canal of the Detroit river.

    I want to go organic, but inherited a lawn with many weeds, dead spots etc. last year.

    Any advice what I should do for this upcoming year? Should I kill it all and start new or perhaps slowly get it up to snuff via over-seeding?

    My soil test indicated a mineral based soil with little organic material and a clay base. The front yard get some sun but the backyard is mostly shade.

    I’d appreciate any pointers on where and how to start making a healthy and stellar lawn..especially on the cheap!

    Reply

  47. Brian Says:
    February 28th, 2011 at 11:43 pm

    Paul,

    I have access to canal water from the Detroit River. This canal is navigable and opens to the river on both sides, so it should get ample circulation.

    Would I be better to use this canal water via a pump or use city water via my faucet? Would it matter if I was just watering the lawn verses using water for spreading compost tea?

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      March 1st, 2011 at 9:28 am

      Brian,
      Check with the city to see if the water is treated. If it is, then I would go with the Canal water — provided it is not overly polluted.

      Reply

      • Brian Says:
        March 1st, 2011 at 10:00 am

        Thanks Paul!

        As a follow-up, how do you determine if the water is polluted or not? The Detroit River connects Lake Huron and Lake Erie (via Lake St. Clair and the St. Clair River).

        Obviously, the Great Lakes could be considered a less polluted water source, but I am unsure if excess nutrients from Agricultural and turf run-off is in this water.

        Could I be unintentionally putting excess or synthetic nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus on my lawn and in my garden via canal water?

        Reply

        • Paul Tukey Says:
          March 1st, 2011 at 10:21 am

          Brian,
          It’s highly unlikely that the nitrogen and phosphorus levels would be that high in the river that they would impact your lawn, whereas the levels of chlorine or fluoride in the city water could impact the soil biology. It wouldn’t be a bad idea, though, to have the water tested. Or at least talk to local farmers who may be using the river water for irrigation to see if they have encountered any problems.

          PT

          Reply

  48. Michele Says:
    March 7th, 2011 at 9:38 pm

    I have a question regarding the safety of eating food that might be contaminated by chemical lawn fertilizer and herbicide. My husband asked Trugreen to come out and apply organic/natural fertilizer (Chicken poop) and spot spray the weeds in the front and sides of our yard only. Unfortunately they didn’t do what he asked. They sprayed the entire yard with urea and chemical herbicides. I have garlic and herbs planted near the patio, downhill and very close to where they sprayed. They also sprayed (directly) areas where I was going to plant other herbs and vegetables. We have a garden in the back which is uphill and supposedly they don’t spray close to gardens. My questions are: Do you think it’s safe to eat the garlic and herbs (if they don’t die) and would it be safe to eat food planted in the areas which were sprayed? Should the soil be tested for safety? Can it be flushed out of the soil or amended? I’m so disappointed (and angry) about the whole thing and I’m not sure what to do. Any guidance would be appreciated.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      March 7th, 2011 at 9:53 pm

      Michelle,
      There are many ways to answer this. First off, the majority of the world’s food is sprayed with chemical herbicides and many would argue that it is safe. The only way to avoid this is to buy certified organic food. To be certified, the crops must be grown on land that has been free of synthetic chemical fertilizers and herbicides for at least three years. Depending on what herbicides were used and what soil types you have, those products can persist in the soil from several weeks to several years.

      If it were my home I wouldn’t grow food in those areas that you know were sprayed. You might want to consider growing in raised beds in the meantime with new soil from a pure source.
      PT

      Reply

  49. Brian Says:
    March 15th, 2011 at 11:36 am

    Paul,

    I am unsure if my Soil test recommendations are accurate. Can you tell me if I need to do anything different from what it says, like perhaps add more calcium and magnesium?

    I used a mulching lawn mower last year, but did little else. My plan was to aerate this spring and add compost, compost tea, and some natural nitrogen and potassium fertilizer.

    My soil test last year showed the following:

    Soil Mineral
    soil ph 7.8
    Phosphorus 50 ppm
    Potassium 99 ppm
    Magnesium 168 ppm
    Calcium 2831 ppm

    they recommend:

    nitrogen 3-5 lb /1000sq.ft.
    potassium 0.8 lb/1000 sq.ft
    or 32-0-10

    Additionally they said not to apply limestone

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:
      March 21st, 2011 at 9:42 am

      Brian,
      You soil pH is high. Too high. I would spend as much money as you can on good compost for your lawn, which will add biological activity and moderate your pH. I’ll have additional recommendations as time allows.

      Reply

      • Brian Says:
        May 6th, 2011 at 1:56 pm

        Paul,

        Do you have any more recommendations for my lawn (you mentioned you have more as time allows)?

        I found a source of good quality compost, but am waiting for the rain to to stop so the compost drys enough to be transported to my house.

        I though I’d de-thatch, aerate, apply the compost top dressing, and then mix some compost and my grass seed together with a broadcast spreader to overseed my thin lawn.

        In the mean time, I have been manually pulling out the dandelions.

        Any advice? Perhaps more calcium?

        Reply

  50. Brian Says:
    March 15th, 2011 at 12:51 pm

    Paul,

    did you ever test Eco-Lawn and the High Country Gardens No Mow selections side by side this year in a cost/performance comparison?

    Brian

    Reply

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