Use this section to pose any questions you may have.
278 Responses to “Ask a Question”
Trackbacks/Pingbacks
-
[...] answered this question today in our Ask a Question Section and it’s worth posting individually [...]
-
[...] questions about lawn care, use this section to ask them here, or review previous questions here: http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2009/09/ask-a-question/comment-page-1/#comment-1025 Share and [...]
-
[...] like ours give his products a bad name. I think he’s missing the point, though: http://www.safelawns.org/blog/index.php/2009/09/ask-a-question/comment-page-1/#comment-2871 Share and [...]
-
really…
Fat women and girls always worried because of their ugly shaped bodies. They want to wear expensive and stylish outfits . http://bfdvrtg.slkut.com/2011/06/15/the-world-of-korean-tea/ but they can not wear these outwears…
-
Greate…
It’s such a great site! http://tomvxkhan.sosblogs.com/The-first-blog-b1/Stylish-Caroline-is-a-sparkler-on-Court-Two-as-opposed-to-stroppy-Serena-b1-p4.htm Great post, I just bookmarked it on Digg….
Leave a Reply
- Miracle Gro Deal with Wildlife Federation Outrages Environmental Community
- Citing Guilty Plea, Wildlife Federation Ends Agreement with Scotts
- Chemical Industry Convinces Toronto Flower Show to Ban Film
- Researcher: Roundup May Be Causing Miscarriages in Cattle, Humans
- Groundcover Wednesday: Lemon Thyme
- Amidst Wildlife Federation Firestorm, Scotts Miracle Gro Fined $4.5 Million for Toxic Bird Seed, Falsifying Records
- SafeLawns T-Shirts & Lawn Signs Now Available
- Good Morning America to Showcase Natural Pesticides
- Use New Neem Product for Grub Control
- As Wildlife Federation Defends Its Greed, Scotts Continues to Assault Our Sensibilities
- Elisabeth Beaubien: howdy Paul, sodium laurel sulfate... perhaps no...
- Karina Zedalis: Many school & municipal sports fields are heav...
- jack: One sign is not enough. On our soccer fields, the...
- Tom: I just got unwanted service from Scotts. They spr...
- The Weed's Network: Great environmental eductation Paul. Thanks. Dav...
2
A Chemical Reaction
Beyond Pesticides
Child Safe Playing Fields Act
Colony Collapse Disorder
Compost Tea
EcoSMART
Fertilizer runoff
Glenstone
GMO foods
Imidacloprid
Lawn Alternatives
Lawn Games
Lawn Games for Life
Milorganite
Molkky
Monsanto
National Wildlife Federation
NatraTurf
natural fertilizer
Natural Weed Control
Organic Fertilizer
Organic Lawn Care
Organic Lawn Fertilizer
Organic Weed Control
Paul Tukey
Pesticide Bans
Pesticide Drift
Pesticide Laws
Pesticide Legislation
Pesticide Poisoning
Pesticides
Pesticide Toxicity
Phosphorus Bans
Roundup
Roundup toxicity
Sandra Steingraber
Scotts Miracle Gro
Tag
Tag Toss & Run
Toss & Run
Toxic Chemicals
Toxic Pesticides
Watering Tips
whitewashing
Upcoming Events
September 11th, 2009 at 10:38 am
Hey! Congrats on the joy of a new baby. Hint: enjoy it all now because in a few years they develop an attitude, move out and then move back in again….
Puzzling situation here. I have a scenario whereby a large lawn area is healthy, mowed properly, irrigated properly and fertilized in accordance with season and climate zone (Vancouver Island) Lawn area is on pure sand as a substrate. The client has added seasoil, good topsoil, even peatmoss to retain moisture however, certain large patches invariably show stress and die-off by mid-summer.
Obviously, the sand base means outstanding drainage yet this is not a watering issue, it seems more of a nutrient deficiency issue. If so, why only in specific areas – since all areas get the same nutrients?
It’s almost as if there is something in the substrate but that too was checked and verified – all sand is the same (about a 1 acre lawn area)
Any ideas?
We apply dolomite (no moss in such patches) twice yearly, no lack of calcium. We apply a balanced low N fall fertilizer but do not over-apply. Grass does not need dethatching and certainly does not need aeration. I am somewhat stumped.
Hmmm.
john in Victoria BC Canaduh
September 13th, 2009 at 10:02 pm
These kinds of things are tough to diagnose, that’s for sure. It doesn’t make sense, but I would have to try to determine the history of the landscape. Were trees removed, even several years ago, for example? Any chance of an underground contamination? I know you said you checked it, but what did you check for? I would continue to baby the areas that dry out easily. Are you familiar with hydretain? I know people who swear by it.
September 11th, 2009 at 1:58 pm
Ask right here?
For three years I’ve had lacebug on an azalea (yes, it’s in full sun). How can I reduce/control the population without using an imidacloprid soil drench?
September 11th, 2009 at 4:44 pm
Lace bug on azalea is rarely fatal, but it does make the plants unsightly. Their presence is generally a sign of overall stress of the plant. Perhaps it is too sunny. Perhaps the soil pH is too high. It is difficult to determine without more information. A water blast can dislodge and disorient the lace bugs and often do well. Neem oil is the organic control of choice and this product can be found in numerous products. Best of luck.
September 11th, 2009 at 2:05 pm
Here’s a few to get things rolling….
1. Most customers want their weed ridden lawn dealt with NOW and Organically. What’s the most satisfactory response apart from all the cliches involving true health takes time etc. Does an organic roundup exist? Most people want clover gone, even when I explain its not the imposter they think…
2. What advice would you give to a busines planning to offer a monthly compost tea service? Is there a system that exists or person you recommend talking to that could help with getting set up, finding a system that works, etc.
3. How do you recommend you install a lawn on the lot of a new home construction? The soil the contractor left is minimal and mostly clay and rock. Would you rototill or aerate the existing soil?
Thanks.
September 12th, 2009 at 10:03 am
Not sure, are we supposed to reply individually or…
anyway
I have 68 regular customers on a maintenance gardening basis, some let me do whatever I think is best, when ever I feel like it, etc. while others have specific wants, needs and requests. I try to explain that clover is good (fixes N, it’s green, it’s better than moss) since diversity is good and that by regular mowing, flowering clover and resulting stinging insects are unlikely. Still, a few want me to ‘do something about it’.
Clover expands by stolons, so it’s not a matter of picking them out by hand. This becomes problematic. I do not use any organochlors of any kind and stating that over-seeding grass in fall will result in a thicker lawn that out-competes clover makes such people look at me as if I was some charlatan. Too many people still have that air-brushed better homes and gardens cover photo mindset. Monocultural lawns are inherently un-natural and become an on-going battlefield unless the mindset is altered.
So I brung them a 1 gallon jug of pickling vinegar (7%) and told them to spray in full sun. THAT should keep them busy for a while..
In other words, it’s clover. I tell them to get over it and be happy that they are not looking at creeping buttercup.
john up in canna duh
September 12th, 2009 at 10:12 am
3. How do you recommend you install a lawn on the lot of a new home construction? The soil the contractor left is minimal and mostly clay and rock. Would you rototill or aerate the existing soil?
Is it embellished with construction debris? I once rototilled up a cracked bathroom sink, neatly dug under about 10 inches.
My opinion? If it contains rocks, no need to aerate. ample air pockets in there.
In my checkered and marginally legal/moral past, I have tilled such sites to approx. level sloping slightly away from the structure, (not too deep unless you know where the drainage system is)then spread a truckload of topsoil, then raked the stuff level again, then passed over the bed with dolomite lime, then put on 3 passes of grass seed, then rolled it down, then sprinkled the whole sorry mess.
After a week of driving by and watering, the place had that spring-green sprouty look. After 3 weeks, there was a lawn.
But hey, that’s probably the hard way to do it.
john i
September 12th, 2009 at 8:06 pm
Thank John. What kind of business do you run? Landscaping or Lawn Care. I’m just starting up my own Eco Lawn Care business just north of you in Duncan. We should chat..
September 12th, 2009 at 9:45 pm
A matter of definition. To me, landscaping involves major work, rocks, volumes of materials, lots of overhead and 1 off type projects. Lawns only is just that, guys drive up, trim/mow/blow and bugger off asap.
My approach is less specific: residential maintenance gardening (used to do stratas, hated the ever-changing politics) either very busy professionals or seniors. Oak Bay, Uplands, Saanich, Gordon Head, Fairfield i.e. a specific area whereby I rarely have to drive more than 5 minutes between sites. Moreover, I cluster meaning that I can park, do 4 or 5 places on the same street, again saving gas, time, money.
I keep busy 11 months a year by NOT having a focus on a narrow area. I mow trim blow certainly but I also lime, fertilize, re-seed, weed, trim, prune, plant, plan and till new beds, herb gardens and edible gardens, in short: there is always something to do. Grass represents perhaps 40% of my total workload (although I have 4 mowers) and weeding is about 20%. The rest is fall leaves, minor garden design and suchlike.
Again, the approach is a matter of market study: demographics, target market economic circumstances, that sort of thing. Never did bother to advertise, I seem to get passed around by my existing Client base.
\
We should take this off-list before we bore people, my email is johnthegardener@shaw.ca
dokies?
September 15th, 2009 at 1:16 pm
Hi, Paul and other Landscsaping Gurus,
I am in North NJ and presently have plenty of crabgrass on the front lawn. Copule of years ago, I had applied Corn Gluten meal in late fall and did not have any good effect.
So gave up on that and now I do not know how to get rid of this weed + others I see around. It sems the good grass is just little and most is weeds.
What is the best solution for the same? Any advice is deeply appreciated.
Also, do you folks have a yearly schedule of — when to fertilize, in ehich seeason, and when to lime or apply weed killers, etc? that would be a rather amazing help.
Love your site and forum. Much thanks for your work here.
best -
simsan
September 15th, 2009 at 8:06 pm
What John C. sez, Simsan.
Corn gluten, to my own experience, does not work well in a wet climate/environment and especially not out on the West Coast where we grunt gardening in a rainforest climate. It may work in Joisee but then, who knows what exactly works in NJ…..
More than that, I dunno about yall but I for one have noticed that the climate is changing, rapidly. Or perhaps I should cut down on the Single Malt. We have had a super-dry summer out here, we are looking at an El Nino winter: weeds will go nuts. I used to slam down tools by late November, now I mow until a few days before Xmas.
Crabgrass is not so much an issue here – I just mow it.
And as a last resort, I rototill the living beejeebis out of it, then re-seed after liming. By March, I drive by to take a look, shrug and blame Climate Change.
A lot of weeds (you HAVE to admire them) are survivors. Weed seeds can remain dormant up to 60+ years, all they need is moisture, ambient temperature over 40F. and light. Nature abhors a vacuum so if space is available, anything will grow to fill bare soil space. Ergo, overseed and let desirable grass out-compete undesirable grass. The, wait 10 years.
john I. in Hick Toria westcoat Canna Duh
September 16th, 2009 at 7:20 am
Simsan,
Corn gluten meal has been completely oversold as a weed control ever since Iowa State patented it for that purpose in 1991. With the escalation of prices of corn gluten in the last two years, the amount required to achieve any weed control efficacy would cost a small fortune. In the Iowa State data, the application of 40 pounds of gluten is required to achieve 83 percent weed control in just 1,000 square feet.
So, forget that! I do,however, think corn gluten meal is a fine lawn fertilizer at about one quarter to one half the weed control rate.
As far as all those weeds and crabgrass, the answers are found in the way you mow your lawn and maintain your soil. I wrote a 275-page book, The Organic Lawn Care Manual, that goes into detail about all these aspects.
My simple advice is to get a soil test right now and focus in on the calcium-magnesium ration in the soil, which should be 7-1 in favor of the calcium. Also be sure to gather all those crabgrass seeds that will be setting soon on the plants. Next spring, keep the lawn as long as possible from early spring through Labor Day. Every time the soil sees direct sunlight, that creates the opportunity for weed seeds to germinate.
This fall is a good time to overseed. All that crabgrass will die after the first frost. So get a soil test, make the recommended adjustments to your soil, and get that new seed down there!
September 15th, 2009 at 3:02 pm
Simsan. Corn Gluten is best applied in the Spring about a week before the weed seeds start to germinate. It does not kill existing weeds, only prevents future ones. The best way to deal with your weeds organically is by creating healthy soil over time by following Paul’s organic lawn principles. I guess they’re not Paul’s…but you know… it’s his blog.
Unfortunately, apart from elbow grease and vats of vinegar, there is not a quick solution to eliminating weeds NOW.
September 25th, 2009 at 1:34 pm
I just recieved a soil test and the yard had a pH of 7.4. What is the organic method of lowering the pH to the desired amount of 6.5-7.0?
Thanks,
Tom
September 25th, 2009 at 2:05 pm
Typically the addition of compost and compost tea will lower and stabilize the pH. Elemental sulphur, while not great for the soil organisms in the short term, can bring down the pH quite effectively. It should not be overused, however.
October 1st, 2009 at 9:59 am
Organic fertilizer nitrogen (mostly nonsoluble) requires soil micro-organisms to make it available to grass. How is such micro-organism activity affected by soil temperature? If this activity is lowered, what are the implications for late fall/early spring fertilization? If pesticides or soluble nitrogen fertilizers have been previously used, how long will it take before a sufficient micro-organism population is established to process an organic fertilizer application?
October 3rd, 2009 at 7:25 am
Joel, Great question. Warm temperatures definitely increase the rate and efficiency of microbial activity in the soil. Late fall and early spring applications of fertilizer are applied as food sources for the organisms as they “wake up” from the cold winter.
In the most strict terms, fields can’t be certified as organic for three years after a chemical application. These are the USDA standards. In the back yard garden, you can restore almost full microbial activity within a year if you get involved with liquid organic fertilizers, granular organic fertilizers and application of compost teas.
October 1st, 2009 at 5:07 pm
If you have grubs, do you have to put down nematodes ahead of overseeding to give the nematodes a chance to kill the grubs? If yes, how long a time do you have to give the nematodes before overseeding?
I have grubs and my organic lawn care guy put down nematodes the same day he slice seeded grass seed and fertilized. Some areas have not germinated…or were they eaten by grubs before the nematodes got them?
October 3rd, 2009 at 7:20 am
Grubs won’t eat the seeds, so I wouldn’t see a cause-and-effect relationship going on here. Dig down into the soil and see if you still have grubs foraging, however. You may need to reapply . . . both the nematodes and the seeds.
October 2nd, 2009 at 2:37 pm
Just heard someone on NPR. Good information. Any recommendations on an aggressive shade growing grass? I’m in California, the east bay, which has a long, dry summer (typically no rain from May thru Sept.), and I’ve got a couple areas that do not get a lot of sun. Been resulting in thin growth, and some moss.
I know there’s a lot of clay in the soil, but otherwise, I’ve never done a soil test.
October 3rd, 2009 at 7:16 am
Well, do the soil test. Absolutely. For the best chance of getting good grass cover in shady areas, purchase seed that contains chewings red fescue as the predominant species in the bag.
October 2nd, 2009 at 10:56 pm
Many of my friends and I live on one of the several rivers in Savannah, GA. Many are becoming more conscience of the damage/pollution to the marshes and surface waters caused by the storm water run-off of developed and developing uplands. Would this be a problem with organic fertilizers?
Many of these friends are avid gardeners who are beginning to re-think the need for expansive lawns but what they have should be lush!
As a member of the Garden Club of America I am doubly interested in what you are doing and I applaud you for your efforts!
October 3rd, 2009 at 7:15 am
Organic fertilizers are far less likely to leach into waterways. Much of the nitrogen and phosphorus in synthetic fertilizer is water soluble, but in organic fertilizers the nitrogen and phosphorus have bonds with other elements so they don’t readily dissolve in water. Ultimately, organic fertilizers become part of the soil. Having said that, it’s still not a great idea to apply too much organic fertilizer near the water’s edge.
October 4th, 2009 at 4:56 am
Great news here in Portland Maine.
They will not be using any more Pesticides at our condo complex!!!
13 acres for Mother Earth.
Zero for crusty old ideas.
I used everything I could find including threats to contact the newspapers.
They are sick of dealing with me.
I have no friends here but I don’t care.
Thanks to all for your support.
Carolyn
October 4th, 2009 at 6:12 am
Good for you, Carolyn. Great job.
October 5th, 2009 at 10:09 am
I was wondering what your thoughts are on the lawn tonic recipe in this article. Specifically, is this against any of the organic lawn care methods or just a way to support them?
http://www.wisebread.com/secret-lawn-tonic-recipe-from-golf-course-groundskeeper
Tom
October 5th, 2009 at 10:58 pm
Variations on this recipe have been around for years. I remember trying it 25 years ago at my first house when I didn’t have a clue about how to make a lawn grow. I found out the hard way that you can actually burn the hell out of your lawn quite easily with this recipe if you apply too much of it, or apply it too often. Many universities specifically denounce the idea of applying soap to the soil, and it’s not really clear to me what the soda does, except to apply a sugar food source, but I suspect molasses would be both more effective and cheaper.
I have not problem with folks experimenting with things like this, but I’m not sure all organic purists would agree.
October 6th, 2009 at 3:10 pm
I have a B&B in Michigan and try to stay organic. I have been using corn glutten on the lawn and raised the lawn mower, which has made for a nicer lawn. My big problem is Creeping Charlie . I have used weed be gone and it works but I want to stay away from chemicals. I also have pulled,cut and dug it out but it seems to multiply itself. How do I attact this weed ?
October 6th, 2009 at 6:41 pm
Creeping Charlie, perennial, Glenchoma hederacea
Appearance: Low-growing aggressive creeping plant has thumbnail size scalloped leaves that look like tiny geraniums. In spring an abundance of tiny, lavender flowers appear on two- or three-inch spikes. The stems are square, with roots that dive into the soil at nodes. Minty scent
Reproduces: Seed, stolons
Creeping Charlie, with a range from the Northeastern U.S. to northern Florida, is one of the most pesky weeds in the lawn in much of the country. Proper diligence can get it out of the lawn, however.
Here is what the widespread presence of creeping Charlie generally says about the soil: Low nitrogen, high calcium, iron and sulfur, poor drainage, low bacteria. To create better soil condition, increase the overall fertility by adding compost and compost tea, as well as a liquid nitrogen fertilizer made from fish emulsion.
You can try to remove the plant with a mechanical dethatcher or bamboo rake and then overseed immediately so that the new grass seed outcompetes the creeping Charlie.
Some people just give up, however, with the rationale that this is an ideal lawn plant unless you’re trying to roll a golf ball. It’s low-growing and evergreen, and it’s even edible.
Many people apply boric acid (Borax from the laundry aisle) and this will slow the progression of the creeping Charlie, but you shouldn’t apply this to the soil more than once every couple of years. Here is the recipe from the University of Minnesota Cooperative Extension:
Dissolve 10 oz. Twenty Mule Team Borax in 4 oz. (½ cup) warm water.
Dilute in 2.5 gallons of water.
This will cover 1,000 square feet. If you have a smaller area to treat, cut the “recipe” accordingly.
April 15th, 2010 at 5:41 pm
I have tried the University of Minnesota’s recipe, with poor results. I also tried raking and pulling it out, but it outpaced my efforts. Your assessment of the soil conditions sounds spot on, especially the calcium (the upper midwestern soils being limestone-y). I’ll give it a try.
October 7th, 2009 at 6:34 am
Rake or not to rake in the spring. I do not have enough room in my yard for a compost and I do not have a garden. What should I do with that dead grass.
October 12th, 2009 at 2:06 pm
What can I use to deal with voles/moles destroying my lawn and perennial gardens over the winter. When the snow disappeared this spring our lawn was covered with tunnels and we found we had lost some bushes and others were slow to recover from root damage. Before winter even hit they have been eating on the roots of our 2 yr. old red maple and it looked like it was dying before fall hit. We have fields and woods around our house but we keep the fields mowed down all summer. What to do – don’t want to have to use traps.
October 12th, 2009 at 2:30 pm
Barbara,
Moles are carnivores that eat grubs and earth worms. Voles are field mice that eat roots. Neither critter likes ammonia, so used kitty litter in and around the tunnels is a good repellent. Havahart traps are also available. Cats are the best. Here is a retail-ready repellent that works: http://www.critter-repellent.com/vole/vole-control.php.
Finally, barriers like wire wraps work very well.
October 12th, 2009 at 5:13 pm
I’ve recently begun a lawn renovation at a home in Northern VA that was empty for over a year. The lawn was in rough shape when I moved in this summer.
This fall, I dethatched and aerated and then added about a half inch of LeafGro compost with the overseeding. I’m wondering if I should be looking to add organic fertilizer, lime, etc to the lawn before the winter hits or if I should be doing this or corn gluten in the spring.
My lawn pH is 6.8 and the tall fescue (Black Beauty) I overseeded with is coming up fairly well in most places. However, there are still some bare spots.
BTW, thanks for the great site and book!
October 12th, 2009 at 7:32 pm
Tom,
The 6.8 would indicate initially that lime is not necessary. Does the test give a ratio of calcium to magnesium. This ratio should be 7 to 1 in favor of calcium, so some high calcium limestone may still be necessary. Seeding a lawn can be tricky. The bare spots could simply be areas where the seed dried out and didn’t germinate.
October 15th, 2009 at 10:48 pm
Hi Paul,
I overseeded a few areas of my lawn about a month ago and kept everything wet for about three weeks, but after I stopped the daily waterings it turned rainy and cold. Most areas look fine and we’re expecting a warm up early next week, but one area is beginning to grow patches of moss. It’s never done that before (lived here three years and last year it POURED for a week after I overseeded) although it is a bit shady. I looked up things to try and found three suggestions: fertilize (I had just done so), Core aerate (Also just did), add Lime to raise pH (A soil test this year showed a pH of 7.6, so that doesn’t seem like a good idea). I’ve never dealt with moss, so I’m not sure if I sure pull it or just leave it until we get some sun, or something else. It doesn’t bother me to leave it for awhile (even until spring), but I wouldn’t want it to take over that area if there’s something I can do about it now.
Thanks!
P.S. Will the cold hurt the grass seed I just put down about a week ago in another area?
October 17th, 2009 at 8:02 am
Scott,
It sounds like the excess moisture probably caused the moss, but to be safe you should probably remove it. It pulls up easily. Where do you live and how cold is cold?
November 3rd, 2009 at 10:56 am
The temps got down into the 20s for a few nights, but it warmed up again and the grass rose a few days later than some other I had planted a couple weeks before. And the moss has cleared up quite a bit…just never had much of it before so wasn’t sure if it would be a problem.
Thanks for the help!
November 16th, 2009 at 12:18 pm
Worm composting questions:
1. Do you make compost tea with worm castings the same way as you do with traditional compost?
2. Are the residential size worm composting bins large enough to create enough fertilizer to adequately feed a 20,000 sq. ft. landscape so I can do away with purchasing other fertilizers?
3. Are there any residential bins that you know work well or don’t work well?
Thanks and keep up the great work.
November 16th, 2009 at 1:33 pm
You will get much better results with any fertilizer if you bring your PH down to 7. High alkaline soil needs compost or Sulfur. My soil is alkaline and I get good result with a liquid product. It is easy to apply with a hose end sprayer and is in expensive.
November 16th, 2009 at 3:00 pm
Get your basic worm bin started. You can get them to multiply by giving them what they need. water, bedding, food, soil and nutrients. Mix your ingredients together and put a layer of paper on top. They congregate in this top level and reproduce. And before you know it you will have too many.
Make new bins out of some wooden vegetable crates and stack them on top of each other to save space. Take some extra worms and the egg sacks to these new bins. Water them from above. Worms are like cattle, you give them room to roam, provide their basic needs and they will provide all the fertilizer you need.
December 17th, 2009 at 10:39 am
What chemicals did you use with your company? What synthetic fertilizers did you use? Did you have a valid Commercial Master Applicator’s License? Did you wear proper PPE when applying these products? Do you understand the difference between organic fertilizers and synthetic fertilizers? Organic fertilizers come from a carbon source and due to their complex molecular chains, must be broken down by microbes in the soil into a form (in-organic) of nitrogen that the plant can actually take up such as NH4+ or NO3-. Synthetics are just simple molecular chains such as salt, NaCl. When mixed with water they break down very easily. Hence, synthetics are more easily taken up and immediately available to the plant. This does not make them bad. It is the improper applications that give synthetics a bad name. People that buy stuff at Home Depot and dump it on their lawns at 3 times the recommended label rate without knowing what they are doing. I think your mission is misdirected and should focus on proper applications – not going strictly organic.
December 17th, 2009 at 3:49 pm
Toby,
Thanks for the question. When I was a professional landscaper (1988-1998), I held a valid pesticide applicator’s license for much of that time. I certainly understand the difference between organics and chemicals and consult with universities, municipalities and professional landscapers about the differences. Because the synthetic fertilizers are simple compounds that break down easily, they also wash into the watershed more easily — so I believe that in many cases it does make them bad.
We agree about the people who don’t follow directions. Absolutely. But we don’t agree on synthetic chemical fertilizers. The simple fact that it takes copious amounts of fossil fuel to manufacture chemical fertilizers makes them problematic and unsustainable.
December 22nd, 2009 at 4:28 pm
GCS
Actually Liquid Organic products break down just as easy as the synthetic products with the added advantage of good nutrition for plants and soil. Microbes, Trace Minerals etc.. Not found in petroleum based not healthy synthetics. Our farm land has lost minerals over the years and they need to be replaced.
Quality liquid organic products are more easily absorbed by plants because the particles are smaller and they are combined with micribes. All of the product is used by the plants primarily throught the leaves. The remainder of the product stays in the soil and will not wash away if applied after rainfall.
A Lot of the chemical fertilizers applied to our midwest farm lands end up in the Gulf of Mexico.
December 27th, 2009 at 4:26 pm
Hi Paul,
I live in MA and was unable to give my yard a good cleanup before the first freeze / snow hit. Should I take advantage of the occasional thaw like today to clean up some leaves or will I be doing more damage than good? Thanks for your input.
Brad D.
December 27th, 2009 at 4:33 pm
As long as you get out there with a rake and you’re not sinking into the ground too much with your feet, I’d clean up the leaves if I were you.
January 12th, 2010 at 9:32 am
Dear Safe Lawns,
My name is Andrew Boshears and I have recently opened and Organic Lawn and Garden Treatment Service called Green Acres Organics in Southwest Broward County, Florida. Unfortunately though, I have run into a few legal issues that are holding me back from my contribution to a healthier environment. I know that I don’t I have to explain to you the devastating effects that chemical fertilizers are causing to Florida’s waterways, ecosystems, and inhabitants. These effects are why I have decided not to continue my enlistment in the Coast Guard to start a business that can educate and offer consumers a better alternative to chemical products on the market. Our product is completely organic and only comes only from renewable resources. We have worked very hard to ensure that this product is an all-in-one proprietary formula that consumers can use with the same efficiency of their current chemical products without the pollutive effects.
Now, originally I wanted be able to advertise (or at least tell people) that our product as a lawn pest deterrent, because one of the ingredients of our product is a horticultural oil, which is knows for its pest deterring properties. The EPA does recognize horticultural oils as a “pesticidal ingredient,” but they label it as “inert” and “minimum risk,” and therefore exempt it from Federal Registration Requirements, under FIFRA Section 25 (b). However, unfortunately, Florida still requires them to be registered as pesticide.
Now, I for one completely understand the reasoning for Florida’s environmental laws to be stricter than the Federal standards. The problem is, in my case, where I am only trying to help minimize non-point source pollution, this is a barrier to our progress. As you may already know, in order to register and apply a product as pesticide in Florida you must have a Certified Pesticide Applicators license, and the prerequisites for this are quite extensive. An individual may become certified by first qualifying and then passing a state examination. Qualifying to take the examination may be met by documenting proof of having (3) years pest control experience or having advanced training (24+ college credit hours) plus one year of pest control experience in the State of Florida. (So in other words I have to contribute to the problem before I can fix it?) (That is not what I want to do!) I do not have the above competencies, but I do have the desire to create a healthier environment one acre at a time. However, I can not legally tell people that our product safely deters certain herbivorous insects, until I obtain or complete the above. So, it almost appears now, that the only ones that benefit and are protected by these laws are the pesticide applicators and industries themselves.
I have contacted several officials from the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services and Bureau of Entomology and Pest Control about this issue, but have only reached dead end roads due to the legislation in place. The majority of them have even empathized with my situation and some have even encouraged me to contact Florida Legislators, but I am unfamiliar with this process.
Do you think that there is something we can do to help me and the innovative others in the future that are trying to developing “greener” and more environmentally conscious solutions our current ways of life, but are bound by the legacy laws in place?
Thank you very much for you time and I look forward to your response,
Sincerely,
Andrew Boshears
Green Acres Organics, LLC
Southwest Broward County Franchise Owner
1-888-312-GREEN
greenacresorganics@gmail.com
January 13th, 2010 at 2:12 pm
Andrew,
Thanks for the email and best of luck with your business.
Quite frrankly, regulators are confounded by the seachange that is happening with organics and they don’t know left from right. The people they are hearing from the loudest are on the chemical side of the issue, who don’t want any legislation to change. So, two bits of advice:
1) Partner with someone who has a license already who needs the work. Lots of pesticide applicators are looking for jobs and set up a contract relationship with them.
2) Apply the safe, effective products, but bill them out as “soil drench” or “foliar spray” without making any claims on the bill. You can tell the customer why you’re doing it, when you’re face to face with them. Just don’t put that on the bill and you’ll never have a problem.
We all know, for example, that rosemary oil helps control cinch bugs, even though rosemary oil isn’t registered as a pesticide. On the bill for the application of rosemary oil, you can call it a soil amendment or herbal supplement, just not an insecticide.
I should note, too, that you need to be sure to take proper precautions, even with safer, organic methods of pest control.
Best of luck.
January 13th, 2010 at 3:18 pm
Thanks for the reply Paul and I didn’t expect to much to happen over night either. As for your advice I’m pretty much already doing exactly what you said in number two, but I just can’t afford number one just yet, but maybe in the future as business improves and budgeting permits. As for the precautions, may I ask you to elaborate a bit more. What hazards should I be aware of when applying horticultural oils.
January 13th, 2010 at 10:40 pm
With these oils, the primary precautions to take are eye protection and, in some cases, your lungs. Excess oils in your lungs can be an irritant.
January 14th, 2010 at 10:53 am
Okay, yeah. I’ll be careful with that. Thanks again Paul!
January 25th, 2010 at 8:32 pm
Paul,
I read that Safelawns.org has a new sponsor, Fire Belly Organics. How does their system fit into your organic lawn care regimen? Can they be followed concurrently? What do you recommend?
Thank you,
Carol Braham
Los Gatos, CA
January 26th, 2010 at 8:05 pm
Fire Belly has its own proprietary program that we have vetted. It’s a self-contained program. If you have specific questions, let me know.
January 26th, 2010 at 1:43 pm
I am trying to get more earthworms into my soil in the yard. What is the best method for doing so? 1) Buying earthworm egss or 2) buying adult earthworms?
Tom
January 26th, 2010 at 8:03 pm
It’s the old Field of Dreams motto: Build it and they will come. If you tend your lawn with organic materials such as composts, the earth worms will find their way there. Guaranteed.
January 29th, 2010 at 7:07 pm
When do you have plans to release A Chemical Reaction everywhere? And are you going to premiere it in Colorado? I received the DVD and would love to show it to a wider audience then just my friends, how do I get permission to do so?
January 31st, 2010 at 12:11 am
Marty,
You could show the movie in Colorado anytime. You do need to pay a copyright fee, which is standard practice for the release of any movie. Our base fee is $150 for one-time use, but it can vary depending on audience size and whether or not tickets are sold. Thanks for your interest.
February 4th, 2010 at 6:57 pm
How do we buy a copy of the DVD and how much is it?
February 13th, 2010 at 8:18 pm
Paul,
Just watched your how to video on compost tea. I’d be using a back pack sprayer or the like. You say to let city water sit for a day or so before adding the tea. But what ratio of water to tea should I use when I mix them before spraying? Thank you. I plan on using compost tea for the first time this year.
February 13th, 2010 at 8:59 pm
If you have a backpack sprayer, you can use straight tea at the rate of one quart per thousand square feet every couple of weeks, or a gallon of tea per square foot every 6-8 weeks. I tend to like to do it more often the first year. The good news is that you really can’t overapply it.
February 15th, 2010 at 10:08 am
Paul, as you said before in your posts and the studies have shown, fertilizers that contain Phosphorus are a sensitive issue here in South Florida. But what about natural organic fertilizers, such as fish oil, that contain phosphorus? Do they pose the same risks to the environment?
February 15th, 2010 at 1:21 pm
Carolina,
Any products, if overapplied, could be risky near water. However, naturally occurring phosphorus in organic fertilizers is bound differently than synthetic phosphorus and is not likely to leach through the soil.
February 27th, 2010 at 9:11 am
Hey Paul,
I’ve been mildly impressed with your passion and stance against chemical applications. I stumbled across your site one day while looking at organic treatments for my lawn, and your site happens to be one of the only ones on the whole internet with detailed videos walking you through the program.
I currently work at an organics company called A1 Organics. They’re a big outfit in Colorado along the front range, and actually was voted 2007 Composter of the Year.
As such, I have the availability of several different types of compost, each with subtle differing characteristics.
I was wondering if you could lead me to some information about some specifics I should be looking for in choosing compost. I’m staring right now at several data sheets displaying PH, % organic matter, trace minerals and so forth. There are a couple compost varieties with a PH above 8, which seems a little high to me, but I’m still a novice I would assume.
I did go through a whole season organically last season, and I’m very eager for the spring to hit again. Thank you so much for what you do!
~Steve A.
February 27th, 2010 at 9:52 am
Steve A.,
The most important characteristic of compost is the microbial activity, which can be a difficult thing for a lay person to ascertain. A full test known as a bioassay on the compost would reveal the numbers of bacteria, fungal matter, protozoa and nematodes — the latter three being the “higher level” predators tat indicated a really well-balanced compost. The pH number is important, too. If you have low pH soil, then adding a compost with a slightly elevated pH would counterbalance that.
In your case, you may have access to the bioassays. Does your company take these?
If not, I say just run a simple test at your house. Divide your lawn into quadrants with each one utilizing a different compost. Monitor the results carefully.
If you purchase Jeff Lowenfel’s book, it will give you a great primer on soil biology.
March 2nd, 2010 at 3:00 pm
Hi Paul,
I live in MA and was wondering if I could overseed in the Spring and if so, when should I attempt it? What should the soil temperature be? Also, my soil pH ranges from 5.8 – 6.7 so I don’t think I need lime. My Calcium/Magnesium ratios are 5/1, 11/1, 7/1. I know I need to do something for the 5/1 and 11/1 areas but can I overseed first?
I do not have a thick lawn and weeds are starting to take over.
Thank you!
Christine
March 2nd, 2010 at 3:46 pm
Christine,
What does your soil test say about your percentage of organic matter? You should shoot for something in the 4-5 percent range. Adding compost in bulk would help stabilize that pH.
Yes, you can overseed in the spring. Scratch the soil with a bamboo rake or some other tool designed for the job and apply the seed to any thin or bare areas. Cover the seed with a thin layer of compost to help keep the seed moist. Water the newly planted seed daily if we don’t get rain until it germinates. You can put the seed down now and it will begin to germinate; just don’t let the seed thoroughly dry out. It will germinate faster overall if you wait a month, but you can put it down now.
March 4th, 2010 at 2:45 pm
I don’t see anything listed on the report about organic matter (from UMASS). Are you familiar with their report information and point me in the correct direction.
If I scratch the soil won’t I stir up the crabgrass seeds? And what if I only use peat moss. I forget what your thoughts are on that. I just don’t see myself being able to spread the compost and too costly to have done, it’s a lot of land for me.
My guess is I should wait a bit since there are so many sticks, branches, and pine cones. So April it is.
-Christine
March 4th, 2010 at 3:39 pm
Christine,
I haven’t looked at a UMass report in a while, but most of the standard soil test do list organic matter (OG) as a percentage.
You’re right that scratching the soil will stir up weed seeds, that’s why you want to put down grass seed right away. Peat moss will work, but I don’t like it nearly as well as compost. Peat moss will blow away if it dries out and can even repel water when dry.
Waiting ’til April is OK!
March 3rd, 2010 at 1:46 pm
What can you do for grubs?
March 3rd, 2010 at 2:12 pm
Try this link: http://www.gardensalive.com/search.asp?ss=grubs&x=11&y=11 from GardensAlive.
March 4th, 2010 at 2:48 pm
Paul –
I have another issue I just noticed yesterday. When I walk over my lawn I will find areas that I can make a deep depression about the size of my foot and about 2″-6″ deep. These depressions are scattered about. Would this be a drainage issue? We had a ton of rain last week and we are still recovering from the effects.
I was thinking of tamping the soil down and shoveling compost in the holes before I overseed the lawn in a month. Sound right?
March 4th, 2010 at 3:42 pm
Christine,
It’s not uncommon to have undulations in a lawn after winter and I’d wait until all frost is out of the soil before taking any action. You want to avoid walking on a soggy lawn until it dries and thaws out a bit. If the dips are still there in a month you can fill in the holes with a soil/compost blend, or just soil, and overseed. I wouldn’t use 100 percent compost to fill the holes, because the compost will settle and leave you with a dip again later.
March 11th, 2010 at 11:54 am
I am looking for a lawn care provider that uses safe products for humans and pets in Naperville,IL
March 12th, 2010 at 10:15 am
Dwayne, Check with The Safer Pest Control Project to see who they recommend. They’re out in your area. BTW, stop in and see us. We’ll be in Chicago next week for two screenings of the film.
March 13th, 2010 at 2:15 pm
Hi Paul,
I had a soil test last year and the results showed I had a pH of 7.6 with high levels of Magnesium (765 lbs per acre) and Calcium (8930 lbs. per acre). The recommendations suggested adding 2 lbs. of elemental sulfur per 1,000 sq. ft. in spring and fall. So, I’m about to attempt this for the first time but most of the information I can find on pH around here (Western NY) refers to raising it, not lowering it. And any brands of “elemental sulfur” refer to use in gardens not lawns. Is there a product (or general type) you can lead me towards as well as any suggestions for application? There really doesn’t seem to be much out there because most people I talk to just add calcium as a matter of course without a soil test.
Thank you,
Scott Morgan
Fairport, NY
March 31st, 2010 at 12:32 pm
Scott,
I am sorry to have overlooked this question for so long. Adding elemental sulfur to soil is the standard recommendation for lowering the pH, but I’ve been rebuffed by a few folks in the organic world for making that recommendation. The sulfur is bad for soil biology. In areas of high pH, liberal applications of humates and compost will stabilize the pH. For a quick fix, a broadcasting of coffee grounds can work for a small area (unless you have a lot of coffee grounds). Dr. Elaine Ingham also recommends staying away from the sulfur.
March 14th, 2010 at 11:27 am
Can anyone tell me how much lawn chemical is being used in the US? Is it known how much of it gets into groundwater?
March 14th, 2010 at 1:51 pm
Cynthia,
The estimate is the 80 million tons of synthetic fertilizer is applied to lawns each year in the U.S. Based on conservative estimates, one third of that is taken up by the plant. The remainder vaporizes, washes off into surface water, or leaches into the soil and groundwater. I’m not sure what the overall estimate of fertilizer is that makes it into groundwater; it would depend on soil type in a region. But I’m sure the number is significant. I’ll send out some feelers to see who might have an estimate.
March 17th, 2010 at 7:42 pm
Hi, I’m a new at landscaping, bought the house about a year ago. I live in Houston, Tx. I didn’t know anything about lawns, the only thing I did was to mow my lawn. I need some advice please.
Last year, I notices some yellow patches in front and back yard. Thought it was the extreme hot weather last year, so I just watered the grass every day for 15-30 min. Yellow patches in the front went away but back yard yellow spots got bigger. This year after it started getting warmer, unlike everywhere else including my front yard, the back yard grass didn’t show any signs of improvement. The grass came up very easy, as if the roots were eaten, we figured out it was chinch bug that ate the whole back yard. Yep, here is a picture.
I have removed all dried-up, dead grass. Somewhat raked the “soil”, it looks like some kind of industrial clay instead of nutrient full soil.
Now I have bought 500 patches of St. Augustine. What kind of soil should I lay underneath, before I lay down the grass? Do I need to put some fertilizer on soil or afterward on top of the grass, if so what kind?
All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
March 18th, 2010 at 8:57 pm
Marina,
You should send a soil sample to the state university to see what nutrients you have in your soil. Re-adjust your watering so that you’re watering, at most, two days a week as deeply as possible. You should water daily until the grass is established, however. If you have cinch bugs, you can treat them naturally with rosemary oil. If you need more help, we do have a SafeLawns Approved contractor, SoilsAlive: http://www.soilsalive.com.
March 17th, 2010 at 8:54 pm
I am a first time home-with grass yard-owner. I know NOTHING about growing and taking care of grass. Can anyone recommend the best place to start learning about how to start growing (because I have large area where it mossy with no grass) and to maintain existing grass? Again, I need to start from lesson 1.
Thanks in advance!
March 18th, 2010 at 8:50 pm
Peter,
Watch our how-to videos. Those will give you a great start. Check out our book, The Organic Lawn Care Manual. You can also let us know what questions you have and we’ll be happy to help.
March 20th, 2010 at 11:32 am
Paul,
I just read a post that said now is a good time to seed before the weeds get going. My question is would it be better to put down organic fertilizer now (and if so which kind-corn gluten or fertilizer) or would it be better to seed first. If I seed first what kind of fertilizer should I use,
My lawn is a mess in many areas. This would be my third year using organic products. Also I have a good section of lawn with a lot of moss. What can I do in those areas.
Thanks,
Jerry
March 26th, 2010 at 12:03 pm
Hi Jerry,
I was waiting for Paul to answer your question since I’m still learning like you, but I do believe that you aren’t supposed to use corn gluten when planting. The corn gluten keeps weeds from germinating and will do the same with the grass seed. (If I have that wrong, please let Jerry and I know!) If you use a more traditional organic fertilizer, it should come with planting instructions when you can add it to the soil directly. I use Bradfield Organics and know that they have such info on their bags.
Best,
Scott
March 26th, 2010 at 12:19 pm
Jerry,
Thanks for the question and I apologize about the tardy response. Too much time on the road right now. Scott is right about not applying corn gluten and seed at the same time. You should leave a six-week window of time between the application of seed and corn gluten.
Have you taken a soil test?When you say your lawn is a mess in many areas, I’d like to know what’s going on in the soil.
Moss can be an indicator of many things: shade, acid soil, excess moisture, compaction, low fertility or lack of air movement. Which of those conditions do you have?
April 1st, 2010 at 10:44 am
Hi Paul!
Thanks for your response and I apologize for my late response.
I was asking if I should put down corn gluten now and wait several weeks before I seed or if you thought it best to seed and don’t use corn gluten. I just read your post about corn gluten, so I may add it to the better areas of my lawn and not use it where I plan to seed.
I am going to take 3 soil samples and send them off to UMass for analysis. My front lawn had a lot of weeds last year and looks awful this spring. I have an area on the side under a couple of oak trees that I can never get grass to grow (not many weeds there either). In the back I have an area with a lot of moss. It tends to be a bit shady, but it does get some sunshine. I will get a sample from there as well.
I just received your book and have begun reading it so hopefully that will help as well. I was looking at the possibility of ordering the Fire Belly program rather than trying to order bags of fertilizer. I’m trying to figure out the best was to go at this point.
Also, I Lawn-Pro come to my house and someone told me about NaturaLawn. One says they use natural based fertilizers and the other organic based. I believe I read somewhere here last year that I should stay clear of them because they aren’t truly organic. The two companies that you recommended for Massachusetts don’t serve the South Shore area. Drats!
Thanks for your consideration.
Jerry
April 1st, 2010 at 11:15 am
You do have to be wary of “organic-based” or “natural-based.” I’ve never seen those phrases on products that were, in fact, 100 percent organic. I’m going my first application of Fire Belly this weekend. I’ve looked at all the products and they are 100 percent organic. And they’re ridiculously easy to apply.
March 25th, 2010 at 12:19 pm
Paul,
I have a question about aerating. I am renovating a lawn in Northern California and want to aerate as well as dethatch before applying soil amendments and overseeding. Should I dethatch, aerate, apply fertilizer and maybe a little compost to fill some of the holes, then wait awhile for the plugs to disintegrate before I overseed and put my compost over the seed? It seems like it would be difficult to overseed and place compost over the seed with those plugs sticking up everywhere. What do you recommend?
Thanks,
Carol
March 26th, 2010 at 12:21 pm
Those plugs will probably break down quickly, especially if you get any rain. You can aerate and dethatch and apply compost before seeding. Unless you do a really vigorous aeration, 10 or more holes per square foot, I wouldn’t worry about the plugs.
March 28th, 2010 at 1:36 pm
Hey Paul,
Above I asked a question about using sulfur back on the 13th…would really appreciate some advice when you have a moment.
Thanks,
Scott
April 2nd, 2010 at 2:18 pm
Hey Paul. To till or not to till….I’ve heard it damages soil structure affecting the soil ecosystem and ultimately the health of the lawn. Obviously tilling is essential in establishing a lawn from scratch but what about rennovating an existing lawn? How would you treat a lawn that was planted on 2 inches of poor soil with a gravel bottom? Topdress with compost for the next 10 years or till, bring in 6inches of topsoil/compost mix and start over?
April 2nd, 2010 at 5:36 pm
Well I decided to go organic last year due in part to my new puppy. She seemed to get sick right after fertilizing the yard even after keep[ing her off the yard for 3 days…. So got into more orgainic stuff even made a compost tea brewer. As I went and reread Paul’s book I am even off milorganite. Well not everything is great yet as you can imagine. Not a big gardener but here south of Chicago my lawn has been mowed 2 times already (first was just a few spots) and is ready again more and more of the better grass is growing in. I have even found a local source of Bradfield Organics, Dr. Earth, and Ringer lawn fertilizers so I am set!!! Just looked at me STRANGE when I was looking for stuff for Compost tea, Oh well.
Well I just got home from work about 5:15 and guess what I saw for the first time??? A nice bird in the yard eating an earthworm out of MY GRASS!!! Was happy and sad. Not sure I have enough to give away but I must be doing something right!!!!
Paul, Thank you for you inspiration and guidance in my transition to natural lawn care. Not the prettiest yard due to old tree stumps and other crappy soil situations with a limited budget and so on, resulting in a very bumpy lawn but it is green and apparently healthy. MA NATURE seems to have approved.
I am so proud but with my limited population as yet of earthworms maybe I should be hunting little birdies…. Just Kidding!!! I am grinnin’ from ear to ear.
Without getting into soil testing and thus target applications of stuff is the above listed lawn fertilizers a good start for the NOOB?
April 2nd, 2010 at 9:56 pm
I live an hour northwest of Madison, WI. I have about a 1/3 acre yard. I have not applied chemical fertilizers or weed killers for at least four years, my boys and dog spend far too much time in the yard. My wife bought me your book for Father’s Day a few years ago. I have a few questions.
1. To apply nitrogen I have been applying corn gluten, but when I purchased last year I almost choked when I heard the cost. At times, including today, I’ve applied Milorganite. I read in your book that you don’t agree with applying biosolids. Why?
2. I wanted to aerate and overseed last September, but we had a mild drought that made that option impossible. I would like to do so this spring, but I am unsure what the soil temperature and air temperature should be. What are your recommendations?
3. We started composting last spring and I would like to start brewing compost tea this year. The brewers that I have seen on the internet are pretty expensive. I would be willing to make my own, could you point me in an affordable direction?
April 2nd, 2010 at 10:35 pm
Ryan,
1) I don’t have a problem specifically with Milorganite. I toured the plant last year and believe the Milwaukee facility does everything humanly possible to ensure its product is safe. I don’t have the same confidence in all biosolids, however. Many contain toxic heavy metals and other contaminants.
2) You should be OK to overseed in your area by mid April.
3) You can make your own with a 5-gallon drywall bucket and an aquarium motor; that’s really all you need. A good compact version can be found here: http://www.simplici-tea.com/5gallonbrewer.htm.
April 5th, 2010 at 8:10 am
Hi Paul, I just found this site and love it! We are building a house and are putting down sod. What are your recommendations for a good organic foundation for sod? Do I put down compost over the whole lawn first? If so, do you have to till it in? Thank you!
April 5th, 2010 at 10:03 am
Lauren,
Here are a few things to think about: 1) How deep is the soil? 2) Get a soil test from the Cooperative Extension service; 3) Make any soil adjustments necessary; 4) Make sure you have a good source of bulk compost and, if it’s good . . . 5) Buy as much as you can afford, till it in; 5) roll the lawn and 6) put down the appropriate grass seed for the light conditions.
April 5th, 2010 at 10:50 am
So you prefer grass seed over sod, then?
April 5th, 2010 at 8:07 pm
Lauren,
I have no problem with sod, per se. It is more expensive than seed and is often grown as one species. Shop around and see if you can find sod that contains a blend of bluegrass, fescue and rye.
April 5th, 2010 at 9:12 am
Hi Paul,
Are the product produced by Green Light safe? I’m particularly interested in the YardSafe Insect Repellent Granules. I’m trying to avoid the ants coming into the house this Spring and so I’d like to spread it around my foundation. I did it last year and it was amazing how well it worked but I’m taking a step back this year and I want to make sure it is OK to use.
Thank you!
Christine
April 5th, 2010 at 9:42 am
Christine,
Any pesticide products must be used with caution and according to directions, but the Green Light product you mention is a natural product and one I would recommend. It does work quite well based on my experience.
April 10th, 2010 at 1:23 pm
What do you think of Ortho Ecosense lawn weed killer? I need an effective spot weeder. I’ve tried regular vinegar in the sun and it has little effect on my weeds. I want something safe for my kids so I don’t have to worry about keeping them off the lawn…any opinions of Ecosense or suggestions for a spot weeder…preferably something I can buy at Home Depot or Earl May?
April 11th, 2010 at 9:22 am
Lauren,
Ortho Ecosense is the new selective herbicide made from a naturally occurring chelated iron product. It was developed by Neudorff and announced here when it was released. Ortho is the only American licensee at this time. I’ve heard from quite a few people that the product does work well and I plan to try it myself this coming week, so I’ll have more to say about it. Like any product, it needs to be used according to label directions.
April 14th, 2010 at 10:46 am
Paul,
I am planning on working on my lawn this weekend. My Fire Belly fertilizer arrived yesterday and I have a load of compost coming Friday. I am looking to overseed my lawn. Is it okay to do all three of these things at the same time and if so what is the best order. Before doing any of this I will dethatch and mow the lawn. I am thinking that I should fertilize, seed and then compost.
My lawn has been off chemical fertilizers for three years now and it doesn’t look great in several spots. I am hoping to get it off to a great start this year and have a great looking lawn this summer. I will use a combination of grasses. I am hoping the layer of compost will help with weed control. I believe I read in a post here or in your book that weeds like sunlight to grow and a good layer of compost will provide a good block.
Thanks,
Jerry
April 14th, 2010 at 12:11 pm
I think you have it just right, Jerry. Be sure to keep that seed moist until it’s fully germinated and at least an inch tall.
Best of luck.