Ask a Question

Wed, Sep 9, 2009

Ask a Question

Use this section to pose any questions you may have.

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This post was written by:

Paul Tukey - who has written 434 posts on Safelawns Daily Post and Q&A Blog.


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146 Responses to “Ask a Question”

  1. Tim Says:

    Hi Paul,

    I have a home in Franklin County Maine and right now my “yard” is just dirt. I thought of creating a lawn, but I’m really not keen on maintaining it. Is it practical to simply plant the entire area with clover instead? The total area is about 2,500 square feet and a mix of sun and shade. I’d just not rather have to mow every week yet I want something there for erosion control. I’ve heard of people simply planting a “clover lawn” and it sounded like a good idea to me. If this would work, do you have any recommendations of which type of clover to plant and where you can purchase clover seed?

    Reply

  2. Gillian Says:

    Hi Paul, i came across you website on face book, im campaighning to my local council regarding pesticide exposure in our local village.Both my son and i were both sprayed with these chemicals and have suffered really bad symptoms. Could i please buy your dvd to show in my local council, let them see what they are doing to folks health, there are a high rate of cancers here in my area .
    Kind regards
    Gillian

    Reply

  3. Philipp Says:

    Hello,

    Anyone have any recommendations on how I can ban pest/herbicides in my town?

    Reply

    • Sarah Says:

      Hi Phillipp,

      A great place to start, especially if you live in the U.S., is Grassroots Environmental Education’s website, http://www.grassrootsinfo.org

      Also, their How Green is My Town program. In particular, check out their page on turf pesticides:
      http://www.howgreenismytown.org/mylocalgovt/lgpesticides.html

      You can also download a Municipal Pesticide Reduction Resource Guide, a step-by-step manual to help concerned citizens, cities and towns reduce pesticides at
      http://www.turi.org/content/view/full/2743

      It was written in 2002 for Massachusetts, but most of it is relevant anywhere in the U.S. It includes a step-by-step outline for municipal pesticide use reduction.

      In most states it is not currently possible for a town to ban pesticides on private land, but it is possible for them to ban pesticides on their own land, which is often extensive, and to set an example for its citizens.

      Reply

  4. Mike Says:

    Hi Paul,

    Are there any compost bins you recommend? I live in suburbs and don’t have much room or appeal for an open wooden one. My family gets rid of a lot of food scraps and I’d like to be using them in a good way. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply

  5. Kelly Wheeler Says:

    Could somebody teach me the main differences between the different types of bedbugs?

    Reply

  6. Scott Morgan Says:

    Hey Paul,

    I’m trying to figure out a way to keep track of where my property line is when I mow. I have a very nice older neighbor who can’t mow in a straight line and my inability to draw a straight line with a ruler is well documented! I swear I once saw these target/bullseyes you could sink into the ground along a line to mark for mowing, but for the life of me I can’t find them again. I figured if anyone would know it would be you, so any help on that front or other ways of keeping my mower straight would be appreciated!

    Thanks as always,
    Scott Morgan

    Reply

  7. John Carey Says:

    I’d like to know how to question our lawn spray applicator guy who recently told me he will call to explain what he sprays on the lawn.
    I know I should ask if he uses atrazine. Which he probably does. What else should I be looking for? His service is described as “fertilizer and weed control treatment”. I have three little nieces that come and visit here at my parents house. I really want this guy to get the important message. Thanks for your help.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:

      Ask to see the MSDS sheets (Material Safety Data Sheets) of everything he’s applying to your property. The risks are usually spelled out on those. You can also type in the chemical compound into the database at http://www.panna.org to see what their scientific review has to say.

      Reply

  8. Monica Belyea Says:

    We just removed a large section of asphalt from our city yard. I had planned to seed it with a mix of grasses including clover. I have no need for pristine blue grass but the kids need a place to kick a ball around. I’m now rethinking because it’s such a muddy mess out there, there’s nowhere to go except through it. I’m also feeling impatient to have a yard after 3 years of asphalt.

    Is there anyone in the Northeast that grows environmentally friendly sod? I’m in Connecticut. And is sod worth the cost if I’m going to let clover and dandelions grow in it?

    Thanks much!
    -Monica

    Reply

    • Sarah Says:

      Hi Monica,

      It’s hard to start a lawn in the spring in the Northeast because of the competition from annual weeds; it’s much easier in the fall. A useful solution is to plant annual ryegrass now, which germinates very quickly and grows fast, and then in late August or early September overseed with a perennial grass seed mix and a bit of white clover seed.

      http://www.ryegrasses.com/

      http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7967-new-zealand-white-clover.aspx

      There aren’t any organic sod farms in the Northeast yet, and sod is very expensive and requires a fair bit of maintenance to keep alive until it is established.

      Reply

  9. diane rodgers Says:

    I have creeping charlie taking over my lawn. How can I get rid of it safely without using chemicals?

    Reply

  10. Jerry Says:

    Paul,

    Have you or any of your readers experienced or heard of problems with the new Scotts grass seed that have the covering over them for imporoved water retention? I used some last year in dirt patch areas and nothgin grew. I planted some a little over three weeks ago and still nothing. They have been watered every day between me and the rain.
    This stuff is expensive and it is distrubing that nothing has come up yet. I have a co worker that has a similar experience. I have used Scotts grass seed in the past with no problems. The best results I have had in the past was with Lesco. I wish I used them again this spring and may reseed this weekend with it.
    I can’t believe that Scotts is pretty much replacing their other seeds with this one if it didn’t work well so I’m thinking I didn’t do something right. I used Fire Belly Spring Activator after I seeded. The existing grass is growing great. Being all organic I can’t imagine I shouldn’t have used it with grass seed.

    Thanks,
    Jerry

    Reply

  11. Alex Says:

    Hi Paul,

    I live in Saint Petersburg, FL and have been trying to find a green fertilizing company with no success. Do you know of any or anyone that you could recommend in this area?. We haven’t sprayed our lawn since our son was born 19 months ago and it is looking pretty bad.
    Any information is appreciated- Thanks for all the information you have on your website!!!

    Alex

    Reply

  12. Craig Says:

    Hi Paul,

    I was wondering if you had hear of this new product called Sarritor? It is produced in Montreal, Canada and is supposed to be a naturally occuring fungus that is used as a selective herbicide that targets broadleaf weeds. The manufacturer claims it to be safe for humans and pets as well.

    Here is the link to their website: http://www.sarritor.ca/ I would love to hear what your thoughts are on this product.

    Thanks.

    Reply

  13. Hank Lipson Says:

    Looking for recommendations for a general post-emergent weed control. I am in southern NJ and used corn gluten as a pre-emergent.

    Thanks…

    Reply

  14. Jen Says:

    Hi,
    I’d like to write a short letter to our YMCA Executive Director about pesticide use on their lawn. I just noticed that it was treated on May 16, and have never seen this before in all the years I’ve been taking my kids there. During the summer, young children attending daycare and camps are brought to the lawn for activities. Obviously, I want to see this halted. Looking for tips and phrases to construct my letter.
    Thanks,
    Jen

    Reply

  15. Tom Says:

    Paul,

    I just had a discussion with my local compost supplier and his distributor regarding the amount of garbage pieces I have found on my lawn from spreading his product. Apparently, commercial composting takes the organic wastes from municipalities and create their large piles. After the composting processing is complete it gets screened and becomes certified organic from certain inspectors. My question to these people today was, what are the acceptable standards for the level of garbage that can remain in a certified compost medium and still carry the certification? I was told there isn’t any, but no garbage is the hope, but there is no control over what people throw into their leaf piles before dropping it off at the dump. I have collected about 1 pint of bits and pieces of plastic bags, wrappers, electrical wire, crab claws, seashells, styrofoam, glass, bic pen casing, etc. in about 4 yards of compost (not done yet). Would you please comment on your experience with this? Should I not be concerned with burying other peoples trash on my lawn? Because I am and I’d rather keep my property free of trash. Thank you.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:

      Tom,
      Most commercial composting sites will take the time to filter out debris and trash that doesn’t biodegrade, but the regulations are all over the map on this point. Municipal sites are also all over the map on accepting grass clippings that may be tainted with herbicides and other pesticides. You’ll do well to have a conversation with your supplier; don’t just accept whatever they produce. It doesn’t cost that much to filter the compost as an extra step.

      Reply

  16. John Says:

    Hey Paul. I had a question about Organic/Friendly weed killers. From all my research, the 3 best that I’ve found is Green Guardian, Avenger and the new Fiesta. Out of these 3, the Green Guardian seems to be the most friendly and effective. I’m actually buying all 3 and about to experiment on my neigbors weed ridden lawn so I’ll know if gut is correct. Anyways, I was just wondering what you have used and could recommend. Thanks!

    Reply

  17. JM Says:

    Hi Paul,
    I am also a fervent supporter of organic lawn and organic gardening. My lawn (and garden) and very rich on clay; I am in the process of having my lawn analysed, but was wondering if there is anyhtig I can do to make the lawn (and garden) more fertile. I have receive in multiple instances teh suggestion that I should replace my soil on 12 to 18 inches with better soil… What do you think?
    Cheers,

    Reply

  18. Scott Trevisan Says:

    Hello Paul,

    We have alot of brown patch and other fungus here in the charlotte nc area. What kind of fungus control do you use?

    Best regards,
    Scott

    Reply

  19. Bruce Hendler Says:

    Paul:

    I don’t recall seeing this product addressed in Safelawns’ blogs, but lately, there has been a good deal of p.r. in Landscape Architectural and Architectural “Green Products” newsletters about Rubber Mulch (see
    http://products.construction.com/Manufacturer/LTR-PRODUCTS-NST152006/products/Pinnacle-Rubber-Mulch-NST43240-P).

    Understandably, the p.r. touts the positive characteristics of the product: for example, no splinters for kids, nor harboring pests, no need to replenish as frequently as wood-based mulches, etc., plus it does recycle old tires – helping mitigate a major waste-stream issue.

    However, the evaluations regarding rubber crumb with which I’m familiar — especially as it relates to its use as an “anchor” for artificial turf — is that the tire compounds contain lead and other toxins, and over time, the bad stuff leaches out into the soil. Kids play in it, too. This is not good. I have an excellent older power-point in my files from the Mt. Sinai Hospital School of Medicine/Children’s Environmental Health Center that deals comprehensively with the issue, and I can pass it along to you if you want it. Just let me know.

    Also, the rubber crumb anchoring material, generally black in color, holds heat. About a year-and-a-half ago, one of my colleagues told me of an NPR report that noted that “… mystery hot spots… recorded in an aerial GPS study of the Bronx were not black roofs, but playing fields covered in artificial turf. The air temperature just above the plastic strands measured in excess of 160 degrees F.”

    It seems logical that rubber mulch would have characteristics that are similar to or identical with rubber crumb.

    Has this been your experience?

    Is it a matter of concern that you’d want to address?

    Thanks.
    - Bruce.

    Reply

  20. Kim LaFrance Says:

    Hi Paul,

    Thank you for being open to accepting emails to help people like me! I got your name from the Prince Edward Island government; from Don Reeves to be exact. He told me that you had just been here a few weeks ago.

    I had an old dock removed from the shore which is about 20 feet from my minihome in Charlottetown. It had been built about 15 years ago out of old palette wood. When I purchased my home 10 years ago, the dock was still in pretty good condition, but over the years, it has become a palace for carpenter ants! Last week, I had the dock removed by Bulldog Demolition. I asked them to be on the look out for a carpenter ant nest. They told me that there were a lot of ants in an old picnic table which they took away from the site.

    I thought that was the main nest, but unfortunately I recently found another nest in a bank of earth that was under the old wood. I have been treating it with Raid Ant Bait which is a syrup containing Boric Acid. I am contemplating having Orkin remove the nest, but the queen could escape. Don told me that you recommended cornmeal for black ants. Do you think cornmeal will work for carpenter ants and if not do you have any other ideas.

    Patiently waiting,
    Kim LaFrance from PEI

    Reply

  21. Dawn Says:

    Are the safelawn approved dealers on the resource page all 100% organic options. I have read a lot of “organic” dealers are not so organic.

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:

      Yes, Dawn,
      They all take a pledge to be 100 percent organic. If we were to find out anything different about their practices, we would remove them from the list.

      Reply

  22. Brett Says:

    Does anyone know if the Ortho EcoSense Weed Killer with chelated iron is completely safe to use if you are under an organic lawn care program? The other product I see is the Iron X one on gardensalive.com. Is one safer than the other to use? Thanks

    Reply

  23. Jerry Says:

    Paul,

    I have a 12 year old golden retriever who has muscle loss in his hind legs so he doesn’t get around as much as he used. We just let him out the door and he would go and do his business but it was usually in the side yard where there are trees and bushes. Lately he just goes on the front lawn and its creating brown spots on my lawn. Fortunately he tends to go in the same three spots but those spots are growing too.
    What can I do to revive those spots. I had heard in the past that putting some tomato juice in his water would make his urine less acidic but he won’t drink that. Is there something I can treat those areas with?

    Thanks,
    Jerry

    Reply

  24. Paul Stankus Says:

    Hi Paul –

    I’m wondering if you can offer any advice on organic post-emergent control for crabgrass; and I’m guessing that I’m not the only reader with this question right now.

    I was really moved by reading your book on organic lawn care, and have been trying to follow best practices for the last year or two. On the whole it’s been a success and I’m very grateful. But this summer we’re really being done in by crabgrass and I don’t have any good idea for what to do. We’ve followed the basic advice of (i) using organic pre-emergent (in our case corn gluten) in the spring and (ii) trying to keep the lawn healthy overall. But the crabgrass still springs up right in the middle of thriving turf and continues to spread.

    Details: we live on Long Island, and have had record high temperatures and low rainfall here through June and July. We’ve tried to keep the grass thriving with deep waterings ~2/week, mowing high, and some core aeration, but the crabgrass is still winning the competition. I’ve tried pulling the stuff out by hand, but I can’t possibly stay ahead of it (plus, as a pasty office wonk I can’t really take working in the sun and 100-deg heat with high humidity for more than a few minutes).

    We will certainly follow the program of composting and overseeding in the fall and hope for the best next year, but I’d really like to be able to do something more effective right now. Are there any safe topical treatments against crab grass that you can recommend? or more specific mowing/watering advice?

    Thanks; we appreciate it!

    Paul Stankus

    Reply

  25. Sharon Muczynski Says:

    Hi Paul,
    Kudos to you because you are doing wonderful work! My school of Ecology at University of Georgia has a Eco-Film Festival in the fall. What is the possibility of showing your film? I am not in charge of this festival, but I know who is, and I would like to see films about the causes of CCD. Incidentally we have an organically maintained lawn in Georgia, and proudly post signs to advertise the fact. It is a plus that our lawn IS the most beautiful lawn in the neighborhood and a testament to organics. We use corn gluten, mow high, and use good-old-fashioned weed pulling for the infrequent weed. Kids from around the block come over to roll in the lawn. We ONLY have a lawn because it is required in the subdivision covenants.
    Thank you for all you do!
    Sharon Muczynski

    Reply

    • Paul Tukey Says:

      Sharon,
      I’d love to show A Chemical Reaction in Georgia. The film has not premiered there. If you let me know the proper contact, I’ll send along a copy. Thanks!

      Reply


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