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really…
Fat women and girls always worried because of their ugly shaped bodies. They want to wear expensive and stylish outfits . http://bfdvrtg.slkut.com/2011/06/15/the-world-of-korean-tea/ but they can not wear these outwears…
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Greate…
It’s such a great site! http://tomvxkhan.sosblogs.com/The-first-blog-b1/Stylish-Caroline-is-a-sparkler-on-Court-Two-as-opposed-to-stroppy-Serena-b1-p4.htm Great post, I just bookmarked it on Digg….
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March 22nd, 2011 at 2:22 pm
Is there any Corn Gluten that is certified Organic or is labled as non-GMO corn? Please e mail me at lacewing@nase.org. Now that Espoma has joined safelawns network, I have noticed that the Espoma Corn Gluten is labeled as ‘Organic’, but is it non-GMO Corn or labeled as non-GMO corn?
I saw no organic certification nor the label on the package. I also noticed that the Espoma brand of Corn Gluten tends to be more powderly and not as granulated, which I did not like.
March 22nd, 2011 at 5:45 pm
Diane,
I am not aware of any organically certified corn gluten because of the GMO issue, but I will check with Espoma to be sure.
PT
March 24th, 2011 at 8:46 pm
On Friday 18 Feb, my son developed hives for the second time in his life while kneeling and playing in school uniform pants on his school sports field. It was a bright, sunny day, around 1pm. The hives developed all over his upper body and started to subside after coming inside and using cold compression. I had to take him home.
The very next Friday, 25 Feb, at the same time under the same activity conditions, he developed hives again. Again, I had to pick him up, bring him home, give him Claritin.
After a couple of weeks of slow response from the school, I finally received an answer from the school’s lawn care contractor: “Good morning Janice. The last application of materials we put on the sports field was on Oct 20, 2010 which included some 21-0-0 fertilizer and some Award Insecticide for fire ants control. Please let me know if you need anything else.”
The contractor wouldn’t identify his chemicals by name because, according to him, it was provided by the wholesaler in big batches.
I am wondering if there is any connection between my son’s hives and a chemical treatment 4 months earlier? We have had a dry, warm winter in Houston and less than 4 inches of rain this year.
Any insight and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
March 24th, 2011 at 9:40 pm
I would take him to a dermatologist and bring the clothes he was wearing and grab a sample of turf and soil from the field and see what answers you get in that direction. There may well have been a treatment that you’re just not being told about.
PT
March 30th, 2011 at 10:27 am
I’ve talked to other parents who’ve had the same concerns. I wish the schools, especially elementary, would just leave the lawns natural if they can’t afford organics.
March 25th, 2011 at 2:50 pm
What is the safest choice pesticide instead of Roundup for home use like lawn/landscaping weeding? Southern CA
March 28th, 2011 at 11:58 am
I have been treating lawns with organics for over 35 years. I presently take care of 800 residentallawns plus private schools, parks etc. In all those years, I never had to core aerate, de-thatch or applied compost to my lawns. I’ve used many organic soil builders etc and my lawns are A-Plus. My customer loss rate is 2%.
March 28th, 2011 at 12:00 pm
To SDY, You can use instead of Round-up, Burn-out, Natural avenger or weed pharm. also all of these contain vinegar/clove oil. They work excellent!
March 28th, 2011 at 7:53 pm
I saw your slideshow on DailyGreen.com and wanted to comment but after many tries, gave up. Guess there was an error. Your information is just awesome and more people need to read this. Been there. Done that with the organic lawn and with awesome benefits. It acted as an air conditioner in the summer and helped to keep the air cleaner during the worst wildfire to hit San Diego. It also was rewarding to have a text-book lawn with many comments from lots of people. I learned quickly not to let anyone else mow my lawn and that they need to mow it at the right length at the right times of the year and as often as it should be, lest there be an opening for weeds to enter the picture. I am anxious to get your book. I live in the mountains now and unwanted grass is everywhere on the property along with weeds including mustard. Native plants are a hole different thought process and if the virgin soil is left undisturbed, there is no unwanted grass, weeds or erosion. People up here use riding mowers and weed whackers and the soil gets compacted. Thank you for being the right kind of guy and sharing things that make this a better place to live and I shall pass this information on to others including the information about your book.
Phyllis Dozier
April 1st, 2011 at 5:14 am
Is mushroom soil an ok replacement for compost. I can’t find bulk compost in my area. I want put in on my yard and then overseed
April 1st, 2011 at 6:10 am
Duane,
Absolutely, mushroom compost is fine.
PT
April 1st, 2011 at 6:31 pm
I’m so sorry to post here, but I cannot tell where to ask a question. My question is as follows: I’ve been working here in a Chicago suburb to have our school board stop the use of pesticides on school properties. I’m frustrated, though, because what I really want is what Maine and Connecticut and other states seem to have: a statewide ban on the use of harmful pesticides on school properties.
My question is, how do I start something statewide? Who would I contact? Is this something that needs to be done through a politician? I really want to make a bigger impact and get the whole state to stop this deadly practice. But I don’t have any idea where to begin.
Any comments would be welcome,
Thanks, Cyndy
April 6th, 2011 at 1:53 pm
CYNDY, IM CERTAINLY NO AUTHORITY BUT ONE OF MANY, LIKE YOU,VALUE OUR CHILDREN AND THIER WELLBEING. I AM A GARDENER FOR A SCHOOL IN PENNSYLVANIA. I have been so impressed at how welcome my suggestions for organic campus maintenance as well as thier approval to apply methods on a results oriented manner. From teachers to administraters, all stop to ask.My greatest joy is thier interest in applying organics at home. I have had to present yearly budget proposals along with pros and cons listing every little detail as possible. Example: Milky spore cost is more than your average chemical yet the 10 yr protection(once established in lawn,2-3 yrs.)will save them the cost of applied chemicals for the next ten or so years. My suggestion for you to get started is perhaps ,start with one school. Gain interest.You then have a solid example to present your argument in a language they understand, Budget. And proof that it can work. If you try to appeal to thier concerns while maintaining your own integrity I have found rewards beyond my expectations.Another arguement can be made for the use of native plants on campus’ lower costs of upkeep. Benefits! Finally, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, you will find many friends in the teachers, administration and government as I have. People are not against organic they just need informed. I want to be clear that money is not thier only concern yet they too are bound by a job.
April 5th, 2011 at 6:23 pm
How well are your products working in your very own hometown of Cumberland Maine? What kind of response are you getting from your customers. Most importantly, how well does it work on Cumberland’s athletic fields?
April 6th, 2011 at 3:28 pm
How long will I need to wait after using corn gluten before I can topdress and overseed my lawn? We are in our second year of renovating the lawn.
April 6th, 2011 at 3:42 pm
Carol,
Wait four to six weeks before seeding after applying corn gluten meal to your lawn.
PT
April 11th, 2011 at 8:46 am
Any published timeline to start a chemical-free lawn. The articles here are great but I always seem to be scratching my head as to when to do what.
Also Paul, who would you recommend in the Yarmouth, ME area for a consultation? I know you are just next door but I assume that you have your hands full spreading the message.
Miguel
April 11th, 2011 at 9:10 am
Miguel,
Call Pete Bottomley at Casco Bay SafeLawns. His contact info can be found under our Approved Contractors list under Resources.
You can start anytime and now, spring, is the best time. We do have a month-by-month calendar of what to do in the book, The Organic Lawn Care Manual and also the How-To videos have that information.
PT
April 11th, 2011 at 9:14 am
Paul,
Is there a real difference the seed one picks for lawn overseeding?
Could you gives some other reputable seed companies besides High Country, Eco-lawn and Pear’s Premium?
Is there any good quality stuff at the big box stores? These seeds seem to be much cheaper than the three you have mentioned on this site.
Thanks,
Brian
April 11th, 2011 at 9:21 am
Brian,
There are absolutely tremendous differences in lawn seed. Species (Bluegrass vs. Fescue) vary widely, as do cultivars within the species.
When factoring the cost of anything, you need to examine the full equation. By going organic on your lawn care, you’re saving money on less mowing and watering, so even if the inputs cost a bit more, you’re typically saving a lot of money (and time).
With these grass seeds, the cost per pound may be higher than the seed in the big box stores, but you’ll be mowing and watering less. So the rationale is that you’re saving a lot of money in the long run.
In general, the slow-growing fescues featured in these earth-friendly mixes are more expensive than the bluegrass or other seeds found in the general mixes. Certainly there are other quality seeds available from companies like Jonathan Green or Pennington, but you should never shop on price alone.
PT
April 11th, 2011 at 10:45 am
Thanks Paul.
Since there is so much “green-washing” going on these days with retail products, I thought I’d check to see if there were any less costly products that are very similar in scope to High Country, Eco-lawn and Pear’s Premium, but without the added price.
Good to know that Jonathan Green or Pennington measure up as well.
April 15th, 2011 at 10:35 am
Brian,
I just got off the phone with Jackson Madnick, the founder of Pearls Premium seed. During our conversation I asked him to explain again how his seed functions to grow more slowly with deeper roots than other seed that might otherwise appear similar. What he found through years of experimentation is that the percentage of the species of grass in the blend ends up being very important. A symbiotic relationship occurs between the grasses and the soil that helps the overall lawn achieve the goals of slow, low growth, deep roots and drought tolerance.
Hope that helps.
PT
April 13th, 2011 at 8:42 am
Paul have you tried Gardens Alive’s All-Ways Greener Brand Grass Seed Mix?
April 13th, 2011 at 8:48 am
Brian, I have not tried this mix. GardensAlive is a good vendor, however.
April 19th, 2011 at 8:37 am
Paul,
Are de-thatching blades for traditional rotatory lawnmowers just as good as de-thatcher machines (power rakes)?
More importantly, do they do too much damage to a lawn?
April 22nd, 2011 at 9:49 pm
My current lawn is a mess – a combination of moss in the shaded areas under pines (acidic soil), crab grass and many other weeds, grubs, and large areas of dirt, plus a very uneven surface due to the felling of a few trees. I’d like to start over and already care for my very large perennial garden organically. I have watched the videos on Pearl’s premium and am sold on their product. I am unsure if I need to scrape off the entire surface and throw it in a compost pile and then spread screened loam/compost OR loosen the surface and rototil it and cover with screened loam/compost OR just cover the existing surface with several inches of screened loam/compost. I’m just not sure how to get started. I’m worried about the crabgrass and weeds emerging and the forsythias have already bloomed so I’ve missed the deadline for corn gluten (not to mention I don’t want to wait 6 weeks to lay seed). Any advice would be helpful. I started ripping up the side yard with a metal rake and it was difficult work and I don’t want to find out later I didn’t need to do that. Thanks for any help!
April 25th, 2011 at 1:29 pm
So, I live in Iowa and am looking for a safe lawn care provider. Any suggestions on where to find someone?
April 25th, 2011 at 3:01 pm
I have your organic lawn book and love it. Last year we had a really bad outbreak of grubs and moles!! We used beneficial nematodes in the early summer and fall and they worked wonders~ I would have not know about them except for your book! Thanks so much! Way better than milky spore.
We have seen no grubs so far upon digging some holes. Our lawn is about an acre and now looks like a disaster ~bare spots, minimal clumping grass, dead weeds, thatch. Its not a lawn anymore!
We are not sure where to start. All the grass (was only 5 years old to begin with) is now falling out of the lawn as I rake. There are old weeds that are being dethatched with rakes. I am guessing the grass was heavily damaged by grubs prior to us finding them.
What is the best way for us to fix the mess
1. Should we rake up and dethatch then seed and fertilize (we used organic fertilizer before)?
2. Or should we compost over some (it’s a big area and we eventually want it all grass for the kids but might be too expensive to do at one time)?
3. Do you think its okay to work in areas and stages or does the whole lawn need to be done at once? Will the weeds migrate over?
4. Since its already almost may and we finally have no snow should we skip the corn gluten? Is that okay to apply in the fall?
April 25th, 2011 at 3:18 pm
Hi there,
My name is Tony Bielaczyc and I am a garden editor at Martha Stewart Living. I am also the host of our garden radio show on SIRIUS,Homegrown. I wanted to know if Paul was available to be a guest on the show next Tuesday, May 3rd. The show airs on Tuesdays at 9:00 am and Paul would be on for 2 20 minute segments talking all things turf grass with me and answering listener questions. Is this something he would be interested in? He can contact by my email address listed above.
THANKS!
Tony
April 26th, 2011 at 3:16 pm
Paul,
I have just read your information on NEEM for grub control. I was planning to use nematodes for a more immediate response to my grub problem as my milky spore powder application from last year has not yet controlled the situation. How would you compare Neem vs. nematodes?
Thank you,
Carol
April 26th, 2011 at 3:42 pm
Carol F.,
I have always had great response with beneficial nematodes for grubs provided I get the application timing correct, which is just before they emerge from the soil in the spring and then in the fall after the beetles lay their eggs (the best time of all). The water-soluble neem is a systemic treatment that is taken up by the roots of the grass. It acts as a repellent, an anti-feedent and also stops the insects from continuing their lifecycle. We began our first personal trial with this product last fall and will have more reports back, but the university trials have been positive thus far for NEEM and it is less expensive per square foot than the nematodes.
PT
April 26th, 2011 at 8:52 pm
Paul,
Okay, thank you for the insight. I think NEEM sounds like a good approach for when we have more of a lawn system established—the grubs have eaten all of our grass, though! I was planning to put an application of nematodes down with the rain that is expected here these next couple of days, but now I’m hesitant in case I am too early with the timing. I just don’t want those pests eating up all of the new grass that I want to plant over the next couple of weeks. Do you have any ideas on this?
Thank you for your time!
April 27th, 2011 at 8:46 am
P.S.
I’ve discovered a container of “Bon-Neem” insecticidal soap concentrate in my garden supplies that I have not used yet. The active ingredient is not Azadirachtin as in the NEEM product you have recommended, but states “Potassium salts of fatty acids* /*derived from Neem seed oil.” It says nothing about being effective against grubs on the label.
Any comments that you may have about this product would be much appreciated. Thank you!
Carol
April 27th, 2011 at 10:32 am
I’m planning for the first time to give my lawn a thin top dressing of compost. I had the compost delivered and it’s still a bit chunky. It doesn’t smell bad and isn’t steaming but I’m concerned that chunky compost might not be appropriate for a top dressing. Any advice? Thanks!
April 27th, 2011 at 10:37 am
Try as best you can to break up the chunks with a metal rake. Otherwise, in general, the chunks won’t hurt anything. They’ll break down quickly with rain and foot traffic etc.
PT
April 30th, 2011 at 4:53 pm
Hi,
My lawn needs a lot of help, but one particular problem I have is ANTS! A local lawn company suggested spraying with a chemical that kills ants, spiders, ticks, etc., but I want to find an organic solution. Any thoughts?
Mary Ann
May 5th, 2011 at 7:46 am
We too are experiencing a problem with ants this year. What started as a minor infestation several years ago only in certain dry sandy areas has now expanding into the main lawn itself. I plan on applying nematodes in another week or so when the nighttime temperatures are a little warmer and will probably use both Hb (for grubs) and Sc varieties. Will this address the ant problem? What other solutions are out there?
May 2nd, 2011 at 2:52 pm
Do we need to make sure lawn products are OMRI/USDA certified? I am looking at Firebelly’s lawncare in a box and wondering if it is truly organic and safe. If so, it sure seems simple.
May 2nd, 2011 at 3:25 pm
Mary,
USDA or OMRI certification is never a bad thing, but absence of that approval doesn’t necessarily mean something isn’t organic. The approval process is time consuming and expensive, which is prohibitive for start-up companies. Sometimes the products are fundamentally safe, like corn gluten meal, but not allowed by OMRI because the corn may contain GMO material.
PT
May 2nd, 2011 at 7:45 pm
Do you believe all of the components of the Firebelly product are safe?
May 2nd, 2011 at 8:05 pm
Mary,
I no longer have first-hand knowledge of all the FireBelly products, but I’m certainly inclined to believe they are.
PT
May 3rd, 2011 at 12:09 pm
I am going to try Pearl’s premium low maintenance grass seed which I learned about from the safelawns.org website. They also sell a product called the Organic Water Wizard which is supposed to help keep your lawn hydrated. Do you know anything about this product? I apply compost tea and do not want to in any way jeopardize the tea’s benefits by adding a questionable product. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!!
May 9th, 2011 at 3:30 pm
I remember at the screening of A Chemical Reaction hearing that many of these pesticides and weedkillers do not break down in the composting process. But a friend found this on an Agricultural Extension site:
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/faq.html#pesticide residues
“Will composting break down pesticide residues?
“Yes — the microbial decomposition that occurs during composting breaks down the types of pesticides currently on the market, and composting is sometimes used to degrade pesticide residues commercially. (Non-biodegradable pesticides such as DDT and chlordane are no longer allowed to be sold in the U.S.).”
Can you recommend a definitive and respected reference to the contrary?
May 9th, 2011 at 4:00 pm
Eric,
There are numerous examples. Here’s one: http://ohioline.osu.edu/aex-fact/0714.html
May 12th, 2011 at 9:44 am
Paul,
Could Top sodding work for restoring a lawn–killing the weeds and replanting grass seed?
This could be a lot easier than using herbicides to kill the weeds (strip the bank), raking up all the debris, and then seeding…..
May 12th, 2011 at 10:09 am
Brian,
Absolutely, if you have enough top-soil and compost to cover over the newspaper.
PT
May 16th, 2011 at 8:28 am
Recently I was at an event supported by Project Evergreen. Your group and theirs seem to have common goals of beautifying and protecting the planet. When I asked them if they work with SafeLawns, they didn’t seem to know about you. But in case you don’t know of them, I think it could be a good alliance.
Emilo Ernst
May 16th, 2011 at 8:34 am
Emilio,
Project Evergreen is a classic “green-washing” organization that exists solely to make sure schools, the military etc. all have a favorable opinion of lawn chemicals. If you look at the Board of Directors of the organization (http://www.projectevergreen.com/about-project-evergreen/board-of-directors/), you’ll find a Who’s Who of executives who lobby at the state and federal level to the advancement of products like weed ‘n feed and Roundup, the very substances that we denounce. We would, however, love to have their bank account. Project Evergreen is funded by millions of dollars in donations from the likes of Scotts Miracle-Gro, Dow Chemical and many others.
PT
May 16th, 2011 at 8:54 pm
Paul,
I haven’t been able to find any organic lawn care companies in my area. The ones listed for Massachusetts on your site don’t service my town.
Today I received an ad for Simply Safer Premium Lawn Care (Saferlawns.com) They state that they have both a organic based program and a fully organic program. They are in Rhode Island and massachusetts and serve my town. I read through their fully organic program and it looks good and looks to be truly organic. They also use nematodes for grub control and composting for top dressing.
I’m on year four of organic lawn maintenance (5 years without chemicals). We were getting frustrated with the awful looking lawn. I used corn gluten this spring which didn’t eliminate the weeds however the lawn is dark green and the grass for a good amount of the lawn is really thick. Other areas are thin and weedy and the rest fell victim to grubs last year. But I am encouraged. I would really like to find a company that can take care of my lawn on a more consistent basis and do what really needs to be done.
I had soil samples analyzed by UMass and went to a couple of garden centers in the area and they weren’t really able to help me determine what I needed.
Have you heard of these people and does it look a company I should contact. What questions should I ask that would help me determine if i should use them or not?
Thank you,
Jerry
May 16th, 2011 at 8:58 pm
Jerry,
Where are you in Massachusetts?
May 17th, 2011 at 2:44 pm
Rockland. South Shore of Boston
May 17th, 2011 at 3:25 pm
Jerry,
Here is the link to all the accredited organic land care professionals in the Northeast: http://www.organiclandcare.net/aolcp-search.
PT
May 18th, 2011 at 12:40 am
Hi Paul,
The last two years I have had a weed that has given me fits, but I think I finally identified it: annual bluegrass. It’s just started to come up this year and did so last year as well when I had a heck of a time mowing with my reel mower. I got stuck because of not only the seed heads which cloged up the mower, but it also wouldn’t always cut the very thick stalks. I wondered for a bit if it was poa trivialis, but I think it is annua. Both of my neighbors have large white patches of the stuff that go right up to the property line, but mine seem more spread out and haven’t gone to seed in most cases. I’m guessing there is no way to control it other than overseeding, but in terms of mowing should I try to get the heads before they put out seed? If I do, should I try to collect them and get rid of them or can I just mow high and leave the clippings on the lawn as usual? I’d appreciate any help you can offer…I was in tears a couple times last year with how hard it was to mow!
Best regards,
Scott Morgan
Fairport, NY
May 19th, 2011 at 12:54 pm
Poa annua doesn’t really have thick stalks; it’s probably a barnyard grass. Either way, the grassy “weeds” are the most difficult. Digging or spraying with natural weed controls and then overseeding with your desired grass is about the only way to manage other grass species in your lawn.
PT
May 18th, 2011 at 7:50 pm
contacted a organic lawn care company that uses cool power and horse power, what are your thoughts on these products
May 19th, 2011 at 7:12 am
Paul,
I am in the planning stage of my backyard and front lawn, which means eliminating the weeds. Is there a particular thickness of pond liner that works best? And what do you recommend after putting the pond liner down for a week or two to make sure the weeds don’t come back?
May 19th, 2011 at 12:52 pm
Angela,
I use 45 mil epdm pond liner; it’s the most readily available. Put down grass seed or seed or plugs for whatever plants you want in that area as soon as the weeds are dead.
PT
May 31st, 2011 at 7:18 pm
Just had an emergency broadcast on my cable tonight.. Holbrook, MA. A Hydroseeding company was hooked up to a Fire hydrant, and something happened and all the chemicals backed up into the hydrant and into the water supply.. And of course now our water is unsafe to drink cook with, brush our teeth, etc. Yeah, these chemicals are safe… yeah right. Paul your book has completely changed my life, I bought the documentary, and it too was inspiring. I am chemical free in the yard, and looking to apply that organic state of mind to all aspects of my life. Thank you for all you do. Would love to get more people around here to think the same way.
June 12th, 2011 at 1:58 pm
Hey Paul,
Or anyone else, too.
Any recommendations on a battery operated mower? We have 6000 sq. feet of grass to mow.
Great site, thanks.
June 12th, 2011 at 8:00 pm
Paul,
I use the Black & Decker battery-powered mower and love it. Mine is a 24-volt; they now make a 36-volt: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?client=safari&rls=en&q=black+%26+decker+battery+mower&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15999097583130152944&sa=X&ei=yGD1Td6zGM6SgQeA5LzrCw&ved=0CHkQ8wIwBA#ps-sellers
July 18th, 2011 at 2:51 pm
Hey Paul,
I ended up going to with a Neuton. It’s not a gas mower, but that wasn’t my expectation.
So far, it’s fine.
Paul
June 27th, 2011 at 12:12 pm
Hi-
I wonder if you know of any laws in Massachusetts governing the application of pesticides on lawns abutting protected wetlands? Also, do I have any rights (like prior notification) when my neighbors (on both sides!) use Chem Lawn?
Thanks,
Cat
June 27th, 2011 at 12:17 pm
Cat,
Unfortunately, no on the wetlands. Massachusetts does not require prior notification, except on school grounds. I do not believe Massachusetts has a pesticide registry, but I will check on this.
PT
June 29th, 2011 at 2:50 pm
Thanks so much- I’ve been trying to get those answers from the online EPA. I have been waiting four months for their answers.
Keep up the good (and important work)
Cat
July 8th, 2011 at 7:05 am
Hi Paul –
Thanks so much for your work. We’ve been following your program
for the last three years and the results have generally been great!
except for one problem: crabgrass. We live on Long Island, NY, and
the main lawn gets full sun all day on our southern and western
exposures. The turf is rich and springy, and we mow high in the
summer, water attentively and did a core aeration by hand (or foot).
So the lawn grass is in as good shape as you could ask for. And yet
crabgrass keeps springing up, even in the middle of the densest
parts of the lawn! I’d like to avoid using herbicides and have been
trying to pull the stuff up by hand, but it seems like an endless job.
So here’s the perennial question: do you have any organic advice
for post-emergent crabgrass control? especially in the hot weather
season. Thanks, it would really be appreciated.
July 11th, 2011 at 10:01 am
Paul,
This product is probably worth a try. I don’t have a lot of trial data for grasses in this climate, but plan to order some in myself to do some tests up here in the Northeast: http://www.sanjacorganic.com/Horticultural/WeedControl/herbi.htm#agra.
July 13th, 2011 at 9:47 am
Paul — Thanks! very much for the recommendation for the crabgrass control product. I will try it and let you know how it works.
I’ll mention that the crabgrass killer seems kind of expensive at $20/200 sqft, but I hope that better control this year will lead to less of a problem next year. Interestingly, the San Jacinto link describes the product as “Agralawn is a combination of cinnamon, cumin, baking soda and yellow flower”. If it works, then perhaps you can devise a do-it-yourself recipe?
July 11th, 2011 at 8:28 am
Paul,
Is there a concrete driveway/patio cleaner that isn’t harmful to grass or plants? Will vinegar work well?
Additionally, despite some natural remedies, I am still having problems with carpenter ants in my house…Is there something you recommend for taking these buggers out so they don’t invade my house?
November 27th, 2011 at 6:41 am
Brian, Second question first . . . ECOSMART has a safe, effective insect control that works well against carpenter ants. I’m not as familiar with patio cleaners, but let me do some digging around.
Sorry for the delay in answering. Your question slipped through the proverbial cracks.
July 12th, 2011 at 8:39 pm
My HOA board has agreed to having the community landscaper place large signage prior to pesticide application in the community so families can take precautions to protect themselves.
However, they are still not on board with going organic citing cost as a reason. They stated that the NaturaLawns in our areas says the going organic will cost about 50% more, for our community, $50,000 and that there is only a 10% savings in cost after 10 years. What can I go back to them with? I’m thinking of asking from them to leave certain areas of the lawn natural, especially where kids play. But what other solutions can I bring them? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks!
September 8th, 2011 at 4:53 pm
I am having some issues with Sand Burrs; are you familiar? I have bermuda grass in my front and back yards. These evil stickers have been sprouting up. I’ve heard of a product called MSMA that is supposed to kill them. I’m worried about my dog, however because MSMA may be harmful. Do have any other advice?
Also, I’d be interested in doing a guest blog post for you some time. I have a blog of my own. http://www.sprinklerjuice.com. Have a look and let me know!
-Thanks!
September 15th, 2011 at 7:33 am
Hi-
It is always so nice to read questions/comments on this site- it is proof that there are other people who care about a healthy world
We live in eastern Mass. and have a lawn that has been organic for 6 years now. We have had problems with grubs in the past and have used nematodes to address active grubs. We have also put down milky spore three years in a row. This year we did not use nematodes (I usually put them down near the end of July) but we saw no signs of grubs and because I thought the milky spore would have had time to “set-up”. Now it seems that we have grubs again– the grass is easily pulled up over an area of about 200 sq. ft. Is it too late to use the nematodes? What would you recommend for us?
Thank you,
Cat
September 15th, 2011 at 3:48 pm
Hi Paul,
I am planning to replace my backyard lawn area which is overgrown with creeping and tall weeds with groundcover like blue star creeper or golden creeping speedwell. As I am not very experienced in landscaping, what do you recommend would be best to remove the actual lawn/weedy meadow (sod cutter?) and whats the best steps I need to prepare to plant the groundcover and ensure it prospers. Any tips will be much appreciated.
Thanks
Angela
October 19th, 2011 at 10:29 am
I am trying desperately to not spray my lawn with weed killer anymore, and I was about to buy corn gluten meal when I read the article here saying it is ineffective as weed control…
Can somebody please give me better alternatives for weed control (pre- and post-emergent) that will keep my lawn safe for my kids to play on? I live in Zone 10, and with all the rain, dollarweed, gooseweed, and crabgrass is running rampant now.
Also, is a weed control product with only Atrazine still considered unsafe?
November 26th, 2011 at 11:56 pm
Do you still respond to questions on this site anymore? it’s been about 5 months since we have heard a response from you….
January 27th, 2012 at 1:16 pm
Hello! Wondering if using an Iron product to green up the lawn initially when switching from a chemical -based system to an all natural system is still okay? My region also has LOTS of moss in the winter spring…wondering what is a good solutiom that is good for the soil for excessive moss? There is normally lots of moss, not just a little bit…….thanks!
K